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RE: Europa-List: Europaprecision?

Subject: RE: Europa-List: Europaprecision?
From: pat <pat@zbit.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 09:13:47

Steve how many hours is on this plane?
How much heavier will the aluminum tank be?

Pat Ellison
FSX sim Europa (poor subsitute but all I have now!)
Wellington, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Hagar
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 2:33 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Europaprecision?

Fred:

I find it  contrary to the general consensus that you are struck by the
high degree of precision built into the kit.   I was struck by what I
considered that each and every model seems to me to be custom built.  Many
of the questions on the forum seek the solution to something not fitting or
lining up right.  My aircraft flies true but that is only because of the
many hours making fixtures and jigs to line  things up or to purposely make
something slightly misaligned so that the left of  the  aircraft looks
exactly like the right.  Having a mill and lathe in the  garage was a
godsend. I had developed a high degree of patience and manual dexterity in
crafting the plane.  However now that I am older I seem to have  lost alot
of the patience.

Old business:  I have tore into the top of the cockpit seatback to get at
the gas tank to pull it out because of the crack. Once the top was off what
was  present was slightly disturbing.  We have our extra support pads to
keep the tank from pooching into our spar cavity and interfering with the
aileron belcrank rod.  Every interior surface looks like that.  The top of
the tank is vavy from expansion and the back surface exhibits the same
condition.  In all cases flat surfaces of the tank are stressed and buckled
because of  the expansion.  You just don't see it unless you take the lid
off.  
I made note to a motorhead friend of mine at work that my airplane had
gotten a crack in its gas tank.  He knows  nothing of Europas or of
homebuilt aircraft.  He asked me if I had  a rotomolded polyethelyne tank. 
I said yes.  He asked me if I left the tank dry for awhile.  Yes again.  He
noted  to me that there is a kit car company out there that makes custom
tanks as these for cars.  The company specifically states that if you mount
the tank by fiberglassing it in and let it dry out.  It will crack and they
assume no responsibility.   You are supposed to buy their mounting kit and
strap it in.  

In any case I don't believe I  am going to put my replacement polyethelyne
tank back in the aircraft.  I am going to pursue making an aluminum
(aluminium for you other guys) tank up with AN fittings.

Also I also have a  pair of reamers available 16 and 16.5 mm, one for the
rough cut and  one for the  fine cut.  I have cut them short and machined a
hex on each end.  That way you  don't have to pull the endine way out and
you can put a ratchet on the end  to run them home.

Check some photos of the  tank and the crack attached.

Steve Hagar
A 143
Mesa AZ


> [Original Message]
> From: Fred Klein <fklein@orcasonline.com>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 12/28/2007 5:57:40 PM
> Subject: Europa-List: Europaprecision
>
>
> Hi Guys...and Happy New Year
>
>  From time to time in the course of building I am struck by the high 
> degree of precision built into our kits. While I salute the company for 
> its high quality precision parts, I'm finding that occasionally I 
> haven't done my part (at least the first time around) in ensuring that 
> the end result measures up to the standard required for the eventual 
> hours of trouble-free flying which so many of you (sigh) are already 
> enjoying.
>
> For those of you who are still a'buildin' the monowheel and have yet to 
> assemble the main landing gear, here's a pitfall I stepped into which 
> is easily avoided...with just a tad of forethought:
>
> When installing the bushes in the shock absorber bottom plate (now 
> that's a bit of heavy iron!) LG07, do NOT loctite them in until AFTER 
> you have ensured that you have smooth rotation on the pin LG04. I 
> failed to do this and found that my bushes were mis-aligned just enough 
> to cause the pin to bind...if left in this way, there's no doubt in my 
> mind that the bushes wouldn't be able to do their job and the result 
> would be wear in the holes for the pin in the swing arm LG02 and LG02A 
> which I fear would shortly introduce all kinds of slop.
>
> As a consequence of my mistake, I have attempted to use heat to loosen 
> the loctite bond to no avail...even w/ a propane torch (while taking 
> care to not mar my nicely powdercoated LG07). Attempts to remove the 
> bushes are complicated by the soft nature of the bearings.
>
> Sooooo....I've just received 2 new bushings from mcmaster-carr (P/N 
> 6391K178) and my plan is to drill out the offending bushes and 'ave 
> another go.
>
> This time I'll do a trial assembly of all the parts which the pin LG04 
> passes through before indulging w/ the loctite.
>
> Old Pennsylvania Dutch saying: Why do I get so late smarter?
>
> Fred
> A194
>
>
> -- 
> This message has been scanned for viruses and
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> believed to be clean.
>
>



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