Kieth,
Your fun has just begun. I have my Rotax dealer do my ring mounts, and
it's worth it. When they make the mods, the warranty is not in
question. However, if you want to do it yourself.
Remove the water pump cover and the lower pilot side hoses.
You've done the hard part of moving the ignition harness.
The starter can stay on, but access is better with it off.
The carbs don't have to be taken off, but it can help.
At this point getting the ring mount on is easy.
Next you may find that the ring mount doesn't fit snugly. Rotax sells a
shim kit for the mount which allows a proper fit. See their parts list.
Torque as indicated in the maintenance manual. The ring mount should
not be flexed to install.
Unless you are changing the exhaust system from the stock Europa, you
must replace the water pump housing lower left (looking forward) bent
nozzle from a 80 degree to a 45 degree. This will allow sufficient
clearance to position the muffler as the Fire Wall Forward (Euroopa XS)
instructions direct. To remove the 80 degree nozzle, heat the housing
carefully and rotate off the nozzle. I use a propane torch, and heat
the housing uniformly (about 400 degrees F) until the nozzle just starts
to move easily and maintain constant temp after the nozzle starts to
rotate and continue the uniform heat until off. A nice piece of 1/2
inch stock stuck in the hole works well. Do not cock the nozzle or you
will destroy the threads. If you have to, use a small pipe wrench. It
is best to remove both the nozzles on that side for ease of installation
and removal. You have to rotate the upper nozzle to turn the lower.
(It's never easy!) You might as well take off the one you loosened to
ensure a good seal. That's your choice. Clean the threads and
reinstall with loctite 243 in the orientation which will allow the two
lower pilot side hoses to fit through the V in the ring mount support.
When you reinstall the water pump housing, replace your gasket and if
necessary the compression washers. Please note the stainless bolt goes
at the 6 o'clock position and make sure you have a good seal with a new
or cleaned up compression washer. That bolt has coolant running around
it and it will leak if not done correctly. Torque as indicated. Do not
over torque. Again, consult with the Rotax parts list for the 45 degree
part number.
Reinstall the coolant lines and protect your hoses with a heat shield.
For better service, go to a racing catalogue and order aluminum heat
sleeve to finish off the installation. Get enough heat sleeve to do the
oil lines also.
Once the engine is modified as indicated above, the FWF assembly is
straight forward. Some have left the coolant lines below the ring mount
when using the older rounder style muffler, but even then, the muffler's
heat destroys the lower hose. One guy rotated the 80 degree nozzle aft,
and put a very long hose on the nozzle to clear the muffler. Not very
neat, and made mounting the engine more of a pain.
It takes a long day to do it the first time. Go slow and take your
time, don't force anything and enjoy yourself. It took longer to do
this email than modify the pump housing.
Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations.
----- Original Message -----
From: Keith Hickling<mailto:keithhickling@clear.net.nz>
To: Eurpoa List<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 2:09 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Fitting Rotax ring mount for 912uls
Merry Christmas everyone.
Can someone please tell me how to fit the ringmount for the 912 uls?
So far I've disconnected the rear mount of the ignition modules so the
mount can slide under that, and the bottom 2 coolant hoses, but I still
can't get the mount past the starter motor. Or, if I lift it over the
starter motor first then it won't get past the alternator. Is it
necessary to remove the starter motor, or can the ringmount somehow be
manipulated past it? It's a bit like those Chinese puzzles designed to
drive you mad!
Many thanks,
Keith Hickling,
New Zealand.
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