Neville and the gang (sounds like a new band):
herewith the text of the message you sent me yestreday - minus the dirty and
rotten bits - and the personal remarks and political rhetoric- I always
spoke well of you.
I have to say I'm having trouble with the text because;
[a] I printed this, then ditched it along with your address, so this is
to the net;
[b] I have some difficulty in following the reasoning behind the spacing
of the electrical tape. I think you know what you said, but I don't think
you know what I think you said. The 1/8inch space is to permit
finger-pointing the 420. But the placing of the electrical tape is a touch
confusing. If the other readers don't agree then I guess it's back to Miss
Thompson's englich class for me. I'm better with pitchers.
Cheers. friend,
Ferg
Re the window covering, ditch the spraylat, try this.....
Plop the perspex into the rebate, mark with a chinagraph pencil on the
inside, about 1/8'' inside the flange, and run a piece of PVC electrical
tape about 1/2'' inside that line on both sides.Do not stretch the tape, or
it will shrink itself off.Cover all the perspex inside that tape with a
double layer of plastic sheet [ builders poly'], again, use PVC tape.
Then cover from the first piece of tape to the 1/8'' inside the flange line,
again with PVC.
You can now scuff up to the tape edge,ON THE INSIDE ONLY, with 80 grit
paper, if the edge of the tape gets nicked, replace that strip only, the
poly does not get disturbed until after final paint. When you Redux the
perspex, the 1/8'' gap will allow you to put a finger wipe radius on the
Redux, gives a better finnish.Make sure you do not overlap the Redux over
the tape, it is a bitch to sand. Do not use a solvent, just plenty of paper
towel. Abrade the outer part of the perspex with 320 grit to key the paint.
Keep replacing the PVC tape up to primer stage, if it gets damaged, then use
3M paper masking tape up to the paint line, and cover the poly with brown
paper. If you leave the poly exposed at the paint stage, bits of dried paint
will flake off onto the door.
Remove the paper tape the next day [ no longer than 2 or 3 days, especially
if it is damp] and protect the bare perspex each time with PVC tape, back to
the paint line. The same piece of paper can be left on for the hibuild /
primer / barrier coat stage, put a fresh piece on for the topcoat.
With the various primer / hibuild coats, it helps to ''lose'' the thick
paint line, by gently sanding up to,and over the masking tape, to thin the
layer of paint, when you pull the tape off, you should hardly feel the edge.
On the outside of the door perspex, where it will rest on the bench, you can
tape on a polystyrene ceiling tile to cushion against damage.
Keep at it, look forward to seeing your bird at ''O'' one year.
Cheers,
Nev.
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