I made my dolly height-adjustable for this step. Not knowing what
your dolly looks like, I'll ignorantly suggest you may have less work
in re-jiggering the dolly.
There are many 3-dimensional angles to work with that never seem to
fall into place in total unison, and have the cross-members (and hole
position) look like the book, and the socket tubes fit against the
fuselage correctly. I ended up both bending the plates on the socket
tubes a bit, and cheating the 17" height a little, to get everything
right. The legs are heavy, and I had to Bondo big-ass steel angle
iron to the shop floor for rigidity to maintain wheel alignment. And
be well rested to do the cross-member fitting and layups!
[Oh, the flash-backs are starting now.... But the very pleasing end
result is you can take a sledge hammer to that dolly and roll your
project around on its own wheels!]
Maybe you can build up a false floor under your dolly, but it would
have to be quite large to be able to accurately drop plumb bobs from
the fuse centerline, the further out the better. But it strikes me as
complicating the job.
Regards,
Fred F., A063, N3EU
Jim Graham wrote:
>
> As I finalize the height of my fuselage dolly, I realize I have
> interpreted the 17" distance to the floor required for fitting the main
> gear legs as being a minimum clearance of 17", and I actually have 24"
> clearance from the fuselage bottom to the floor, although I am still at
> a stage where I could revise it. Have those who've done this before
> simply established a level surface at the proper 17" distance, thereby
> letting the dolly carry the fuselage at a comfortable working height
> (which is where it seems to be at 24"...)? Would appreciate any
> thoughts or experience... Thanks--
>
> Jim Graham
> Europa XS Tri-Gear, A-101, N4EU
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