Miles/All
I'm just starting out but would like to get things right from the outset.
Do you use the Alodine treatment and then coat it with the Zinc
Chromate/Oxide or are these treatments for alternatives?
Is there a definitive list of what parts require what treatment?
Can Zinc Oxide spray be used instead of the nasty sounding Zinc Chromate?
Aircraft Spruce list "Improved Metal Prep No.79" as the precleaning agent to
use with Alodine No.1201, any reason you didn't use this?
What did you use on the inside of the pushrods etc?
regards
Keith Tallent
G-SAMY
Kit No 221
-----Original Message-----
From: Miles McCallum <milesm@avnet.co.uk>
Date: 31 December 1998 10:07
Subject: RE: Corrosion Proofing
>As it happens, exactly what I am up to currently: I'm trying to do all the
>bits I can before getting back to the resin, glass, and grinder.
>
>IMHO there is only one scheme:
>
>1/ acid wash (I use aircraft coverings/Stits stuff) - otherwise the
>next stage is unreliable -use a brush and scotchbrite pads to make sure
>every bit is properly cleaned.
>
>2/ Alodyne wash -a chemical surface conversion to aluminium
oxide -much
>like anodising, which does the same job, but costs more. available in clear
>or brown/gold (easier to see if you have good coverage)
>
>3/ Zinc chromate epoxy on all external bits, or those requiring to be
>bonded.
>
>4/ spray can Zinc chromate for internal/ non bonded bits, and any
>steel bits -easy to retouch.
>
>5/ colour coats for anything you want to look pretty- pref 2 pack
>polyurathane. epoxy goes dusty after a few years.
>
>You can get away without zinc chromate on bonded bits, but resin on
>untreated ali will always delaminate in time.
>
> Zinc chromate is carcinogenic, so use a good carbon filter mask at least.
>
>all the best,
>
>Miles
>
>
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