John,
Could you advise a source for AMP's Mate-N-Lock connectors, catalog/
mail order or otherwise ? Thanks for your help.
Cheers,
John Wigney, A099
Mooresville NC
JohnJMoran@aol.com wrote:
>
> The AeroElectric Connection has an interesting idea for high current fuses on
> their web site at aeroelectric.com. The area to see is appendix Z, page Z-2.
>
> Their concept is that a 4 inch length of wire, at least 4 wire sizes smaller
> than the wire being protected, will work as a fusible link by heating and
> opening before the protected wire is damaged. Damage is limited to melting of
> the insulation on the fusible link plus heating of anything touching it, so
> try to isolate the link and/or insulate it with a fiberglass sleeve. Fusible
> links may be purchased at auto parts stores or made from pieces of tefzel wire
> using crimp terminals. Fusible links are apparently used in cars to protect
> certain areas of wiring from screwdrivers dropped into the works.
>
> In my installation I wanted the breakers in the panel but this left the wires
> between the master relay and the breakers (including the panel connectors)
> unprotected. I added a fusible link to protect these wires, unlikely as a
> failure here is. Of course, since the link is about 25A and the panel
> connectors are rated at 15A per pin, a connector meltdown is still possible if
> a short occurs in the panel....
>
> Another fusible link was added between the alternator's regulator and the
> capacitor. These links replace the high current fuses called for in Europa's
> diagram. I added fusible links on the wires controlling the master and
> starter relays for the same reason. All fusible links are on the engine side
> of the firewall (to avoid smoke in the cockpit) and are positioned to be
> easily accessed.
>
> For those who are using AMP's Mate-N-Lock connectors for the panel, the pin
> extraction tool is relatively expensive at $14 -- so naturally I didn't order
> one since I assumed that I could insert the pins in the proper positions
> flawlessly. Naturally, old fumble fingers managed to get one in the wrong
> place early on. A usable extraction tool can be made by drilling out an inch
> or so of a 3 inch length of 1/8 inch brass tube (available at hobby shops) so
> that it will slide over the pin - cost is less than $1.
>
> John A044 Newtown, CT
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