Further to our two notes about Cockpit Module Installation ;-
Yes, for "wiring" read WING.
Concerning fuel standpipe I have changed it yet again ! Since the plastic pipe
" has a finite life" (see manual quote) I have eliminated the necessity to
change
such pipe where it traverses future unaccessible places by substituting it
with copper "Bundy brake tubing". I have routed it through the top of the
vertical face of the seat back bulkhead across the top of the tank to emerge
near the tank filler, and continues in plastic. I have SEMI shrouded the
vertical
stand pipe (which runs down the seat back bulkhead centre) with a white
plastic pipe which has a thin black line drawn onto it so the clear fuel pipe
sits in front of it (when fuel is present the line doubles in thickness due to
light refraction). I intended shrouding the whole of this in yet another rigid
clear plastic pipe. The lower end of this arrangement passed through a slot
in the central spine of the' tunnel' which is wide enough to see down, (it
may be necessary for a small light at the lower end, but if the fuel is that
low then you should be in 'PANIC MODE' "ANYWAY"!) Please note that none of
these
alterations have yet been approved by our relevant authority - not yet anyway
!!
For wing pin mods see Europa tech talk stop press (no. 19).
Regards
Bob Harrison Builder 337.
----------
> I recommend an initial 'dry run' prior to applying REDUX, mark out the
> locations
> on the fuselage where the module sits - with a different colour where there
> are big gaps - (having used 1/8" nuts & bolts with "overgrown" flat washers to
> limit any outside skin indents.) Remove the module and apply REDUX to BOTH
> surfaces (thicker where there are bigger gaps) carefully lift module into
> place pulling it home with 1/8 rivets - again with large washers - working
> from the forward end first working equal sides backwards and NOT pulling the
> rivets too tight to squeeze out all the REDUX. Use a light behind to watch
> the colour - a good dark green indicates good bond - then travel all excess
> off from around all mating joints - peel to smooth it off. This way you will
> limit the outside shin dimples - the principle being better to use some extra
> REDUX on a limited area rather than add filler with no structural benefit !
> DON'T, however, remove any rivets until all has completely set and don't put
> any where the control tubes bearings run close to the floor. You can remove
> the rivets later and fill the holes as a separate job.
>
> I used the same plan for Fuselage Top fitting also and got about a 97% bond on
> both.
>
> As for your original question - if you will be fitting MOTOR GLIDER wings as
a
> later alternative you could upgrade your wiring pin bushes to 1/2" before
> fitting the module and if you are putting any fuel level sender probes in the
> tank they should be in the tank before now. - also I have put a fuel level
> 'stand' pipe up the seat back bulkhead thro' the bulkhead along the tank to
> STARBOARD and then through the luggage bay bulkhead to save a 'loaded' plastic
> pipe running right round the cockpit ! best to route the pipe now - certainly
> prior to laying up the wiring spar brackets.
>
> Regards
> Bob Harrison
> Builder 337
> ptag.dev@ukonline.co.uk
>
> ----------
> > I had to take time out from building for 10 months while my son, his wife
> and
> > myself cruised the NW Caribbean in our Nicholson 38 ketch. It has been a
> > tough stint, but somebody had to do it!. I'm back now and itching to get
> back
> > to the sticky stuff!
> >
> > I'm now preparing to bond in the cockpit module, a daunting and irreversible
> > task, and am wondering if there are any other tasks which would be best
> done
> > before I commit. I have completed all steps in the manual up to this stage,
> > have made fuel outlet access panels and incorporated Mod 46. Do any of you
> > experienced builders out there recommend that any other steps be done at
> this
> > stage?
> >
> > Thanks in advance for any and all sage advice--
> >
> > Pops
> > A-036
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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