Some hints that may be of use to builders concerning the second part of the wing
construction.
PART TWO; BONDING T.E CORES TO SPAR AND LAYUPS.
1.For the lateral push-rod channel, I laid one layer of bid throughout No 6 root
core,
No 5 middle and 43mm core for protection of the foam.I therefore made flox
fillets
around each channel entry/exit.
2.To position the W18 plates I drilled 4 small holes in the plates and before
the
layup
positioned them as required using 1/2 cocktail sticks planted only 1/2 way. Then
on
laying up planted them fully home to keep the plates positioned during cure.
3.The 43mm wide piece layup I placed a 3 inch nail,one each side of the channel
end to
support the piece on two blocks of wood either side, clear of the table.I
positioned
a
small piece of wood under the other end to keep layups clear of the table.
Simply
alternated horizonally on the table, each side for layups as necessary.
4.On positioning the root core on the spar I glued with rapid epoxy the straigth
edge to
the LE root core using a spacer to fill the gap.Likewise to the tip end.
5.I positioned and dry microed the 43mm to the middle core before doing the main
bonding.
6.I hot glued small cut-offs of stirring sticks to the spar edge to position the
cores
correctly with the straight edge before bonding.
7.I positoned a thin straight edge in the flap slot between No6 and No 5 cores
to keep
them lined up.
8. After bonding, I repositioned the leading surface jig blocks with masking
tape
to
protect the surface and do the layup horizonally on the floor.
8.On cutting the biaxial cloth make sure one rolls it up on a cylinder of some
sort to
avoid the cloth getting out of shape and becoming too short when unrolling it
for
the
layup.
9.I ran peel ply along the aileron area where foam is to be cut out and likewise
the
flap area.
10.I also marked on the foam a line for the flap glass cut out and aileron foam
cut out.
11.Part of the root core was 2mm too thin either side of the spar, so I filled
this
space with dry micro using a plastic ruler to spread it evenly.
12.We did the T.E bottom and top layups horzonally at floor level and on
completion
reverted them to the vertical.
13.Removing the flap and aileron foam for the closeout was done by a long
hacksaw
blade
in sections.
14.To achieve a good seating for the triangular piece, I sanded the 90 degree
edge
a
little and before bonding, like all corners,used dry micro to lessen the angle
for
the risk of air bubbles, and bonded the piece in place with dry micro.
15. I peel plied the entire area of the flap close out and the hinge area for
the
ailerons.I wish I had done the entire area of the aileron closeout.
16. Aileron close out, I used a recommendation from this web of wetting out the
cloth on
film and a suitably cut thin MDF board on the table after increasing the size
of the
cloth to fit the closeout length. Then transferred the cloth via the board to
the
closeout, lining it up and tipping it upside down over the closeout.Using
fingers
then
to manipulate it into place before taking the film away.
17.Cutting the trailing edge support blocks, I used masking tape to strap a
plastic
ruler under the block on the top surface to act as a guide for the hacksaw blade
to cut
over it.I marked the top surface 2mm out from the glass to act as a guide for
the
blade
on the top surface of the block. This left a 2mm layer to sand after cutting.
This maybe of help.
Root Close outs to come.
Cheers,
Tim
--
Timothy. P. Ward
12 Waiwetu Street,
Fendalton,
CHRISTCHURCH 1.
NEW ZEALAND
PH 6433515166
Fax 6433515166
Email: ward.t@xtra.co.nz
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