>No doubt this has been done before but I found a good way to make the air
>holes through all the lightening holes into the pivot hole in both
>inboard and outboard cores of the tailplane.
>Take a 4 inch Jolt head nail and cut the head off with a hacksaw. Bend a
>1/3 of the nail 90 degrees in a vice. Then fit it to the barrel of a
>standard soldering iron. Heated up easily melts the foam and the
>soldering iron allows you to operate deep inside!!
I took to mine with a 18" masonry drill of 19 mm in diameter that happened
to be sitting in the electric drill at the time! Firstly it was long enough
and secondly it bores BIG holes! Luckily I remembered to take it off hammer
first, otherwise it could have had an interesting result!.
With your decision to omit the rudder stage for now, remember that the
project is designed such as to accomodate your exponential growth in skill
level as you progress. Each stage benefits one way or the other from the
experiences learned previously. I still find it hard to manage my time in
the workshop, and my mind to the task, without getting bogged down in
B....S..T. Better ways of doing things have plagued my mind, BUT, like
working with Mr Boeing, why do we think we know best? We know from CRM that
a group decision generally results in synergies of thought and a better
decision. I feel the Europa product has certainly had such a pool of thought
put into it as it has evolved. Don't buck the system (meant in the nicest
way!), because, if your idea is the best course of action, many would have
already done it already, and you could ask who has.
I visited a builder in Adelaide recently and swung his attached rudder
through full travel. In the faired, neutral position, he had a gap of about
15 mm. When the rudder was fully to starboard the leading edge "nose" of the
rudder at its base left a gap of about 1 mm without fouling. So a gap is normal,
however the size seems to vary which has created all this dialogue. This
medium, the e-mail forum, lets you get bogged down with the problems of
others that may not raise their ugly heads at all in your project. You could
end up connecting your fin more accurately than others. You can be sure that
the rudder foam is the correct shape, and the problem with the leading edge
tip remodelling is going to take 1/10 of the time to reshape when your skill
level is up. Use one of Graham Singleton's fin/fuselage jig setups and
probably all these anxieties will disappear into insignificance. I got
bogged down here also, so you are not alone. Just move on, page by page,
with as little digression as possible, otherwise we'll still be building
well beyond 2000.
Good luck,
Regards
Tony Renshaw
>"Golf balled" tp5 and tp6 as Tony K recommended. Excellent result.
>Cheers,
>Tim
>--
>Timothy. P. Ward
>26 Tomes Road
>Papanui,
>Christchurch 8005
>NEW ZEALAND
>PH 64033525726
>Fax 64033525726
>Email: ward.t@xtra.co.nz
>
>
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