Karl,
The problem is friction of the tight fit of the TPs. The longer the
bearing, the more force to get it on and off.
Making a tube of glass (using the method of wax paper or similar to keep
the glass from direct contact) where both edges of the TPs have a lip
which not only holds the bearing in shear, but in compression (via the
lip) also. This would be slightly less force required on installation
and removal, and as the tube passes into the stab, prevent a hard metal
to metal impact on the outer bearing possibly creating a shock
failure...
Of course I cringe in how some folks take their tail planes off and on.
No bearing would stay put the way some are handled. It is all in
balance and alignment as well as the oh so important patience.
As you have found, properly built and maintained tailplanes can last
forever. Congrats on a well built stab.
You obviously did a fine job.
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Karl Heindl<mailto:kheindl@msn.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2009 7:19 AM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 73
Surely, the objective of mod 73 was to prevent the tailplanes from
moving outboard. There is no guarantee that this 'plaster' stuck onto
stainless is going to last the life of the aircraft.
What is wrong with my simple fix of replacing the TP5 with a long TP5
reaching up to the TP6, ensuring that the TP6 cannot ever move inboard.
This also fixes another problem, namely the disbonding of the TP5s ,
which has happened to me on both tailplanes.
BTW, I have never noticed any tendency of the tailplanes migrating
outboard. Whenever I remove the tailplanes at the end of my season, the
pip pins are still as free and easy as when they went in.
Karl
> Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 10:43:46 +0100
> From: grahamsingleton@btinternet.com
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 73
>
<grahamsingleton@btinternet.com>
>
> Fred Klein wrote:
<fklein@orcasonline.com>
> >
> Fred
> imho John's solution is adding more engineering to fix a symptom. I
> would prefer removing the cause, which is relying on the adhesion of
> epoxy to stainless steel. Purely mechanical, no true bond. Better to
> make a glass tube properly laid up onto the foam core and the ribs,
> lined with a full length tube with lightening holes. Much more
expensive
> in labour but hey, we can always pay ourselves a bit less that day
;-)
> The problem is the stainless inserts are not always circular and a
bit
> of swarf from the drillings make them jamb. Trouble!
>=====================
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