Fred,
As long as the glass is not in, use a heat gun to evenly heat the door
frame on the offending edge until too hot to touch but not so hot as to
see deformations. I have a temp gauge on my VOM which helps me get the
temp at about 120-150 F. Spring the door 30% beyond the amount and
allow to cool. Repeat as necessary.
Doors that sit too long in hot attics and garages do move over time. I
have never had a bulging door but I think I would use a 2x4 on the
inside and a series of blocks and adjustable clamps to bring in the bow.
The key is to get it too hot to touch and then put the force on the
flange and not in the middle. Work slow and watch for deformations as
you pull. You are trying to retrain the glass to be where it was
molded.
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Fred Klein<mailto:fklein@orcasonline.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2008 8:51 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: The trials of fitting
On Saturday, Mar 15, 2008, at 09:00 US/Pacific, ALAN YERLY wrote:
Trials of fitting, in a word is craftsmanship.
Sometimes I heat a door to shape, put a strap around the door
flexing it beyond where it needs to be and allow to cool and refit until
it flits flawlessly. It takes time, like steaming a wood door.
Bud,
When in place within the fuselage rebates, both my doors "bulge" 3/32
of an inch when measured at the center of the bottom edge. The
possibility of heat-forming them for a "flawless" fit did not occur to
me.
Would you opine as to whether or not heating and reforming the doors
in my case is warranted, and, if so, what would be the recommended
technique and what temperatures should be optimum?
Thanks,
Fred
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