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Re: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73

Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73
From: DAVID JOYCE <stranfaer@btinternet.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 09:26:23
Ditto Nev=0A-=0A"Very well put and said"=0A=0ASent to you from David Joyc
e (The other one)=0A=0A =0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Tre
vor Pond <trevpond@aol.com>=0ATo: "europa-list@matronics.com" <europa-list@
matronics.com> =0ASent: Saturday, 13 October 2012, 9:13=0ASubject: Re: Euro
pa-List: Re: Mod 73=0A  =0A=0APerfect answer Nev.=0A=0ABest regards=0A=0ATr
ev=0A=0ASent from my iPhone-=0A=0AOn 12 Oct 2012, at 21:48, Neville Eyre 
<neveyre@aol.com> wrote:=0A=0A=0AHi Alan, =0A>It's a pity you were not avai
lable when we were working on the design and manufacturing process all thos
e years ago, we could have done with an expert to help. Sorting out all of 
the thousands of items with your help would have been welcome. =0A>Everythi
ng could have been made bullet proof, trouble is the Europa would have weig
hed perhaps- 1200 + pounds, with little payload ? =0A>A number of options
 are available to you. =0A>1]. Submit your new [improved] design to L.A.A. 
you might get it through in a year or two ? =0A>2]. Call Karen at Europa, h
ave your Credit Card ready, and order one of the new [ improved] torque tub
e assemblies. With hindsight, and less pressure 18 years on, Europa have do
ne a re design on this.-Back then,-we didn't take into account that bui
lders would take it apart / reasemble / take apart / reasemble it the wrong
 way round / take apart /-reassemble and wear the holes .......... or the
y would smack the mass balance weights onto the stop..... If you take this 
option, you might have to ream out the bores of the TP5 /TP6 sleeves- in 
your tailplanes to allow the torque tube to slide on easily, as they were m
atched to each individual torque tube. Easy but time consuming, with a broo
m handle and emery cloth. =0A>Almost certainly you will need to sweat out t
he TP13 bushes [ the four 1/4'' bore drive bushes in the inboard rib] and r
e pot them to match the drive pins, simple job with a heat gun and 1/4'' bo
lt, and some epoxy. This heavy duty item is, funnily enough, heavier. =0A>3
]. Remove the entire torque tube assembly, mark everything as to their orie
ntation [ horn , drive plates and nylon spacers relative to the torque tube
] and establish the scale of the wear [in the holes, not the pins]. If the 
pins are the original 1/4'', and the holes are not too worn [ they might be
 now if you have been swinging on the tail to check wear] the next size up 
was 5/16''. Not sure if these are available from Europa, as they go directl
y to 10mm now, bigger is better, but doesn't give you another shot at it-
if you mess up on reassembly. The new-holes in the- tube / fiting need 
to be an interference fit, as in if you can push the pin in by hand, the jo
bs buggered before you fit them. I have just done this job last week to a m
onowheel with 800+ hours on it. very slight play but as it was in my worksh
op it made sense to sort it for another 800 hours life. =0A>Get a machine s
hop to ream the holes out to 0.007'' smaller than the pins ACTUALLY -MEAS
URE,-and make sure you don't lose the relative positions of the fittings
-when this is being done. If there is significant play between the drive 
plates, ensure they are clocked to be in allignment with each other during 
the drilling process. DON'T trial fit the pins ! It is a once ony job !-O
n reinstallation, to drive the pins in you will need a 4lb copper hammer.Wi
th the nip of the tube on the pin, it-will need a firm wallop to drive th
e pins in, should be a '' doink, doink, doink, donk-'' Mark with a felt p
en on the head of the pins the axis of the split pin hole so you can have t
hem vertical when you insert them, it helps to taper the lead end of the pi
n back to the split pin hole to assist insertion, and lube the pin with thi
n oil.- =0A>Depending on whether the original builder put the inspection 
/ view panels in the place described in the Build Manual, or chose to delet
e / move them,-this is either a 3 hour each way job + the machining work,
-or a couple of days marathon swearing session. =0A>This work will need i
nspecting, and entering in the aircrafts Log Book.- =0A>Regards, =0A>Nev.
 =0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>------Original Message-----=0A>From: Alan Carter <alanca
rteresq@onetel.net>=0A>To: europa-list <europa-list@matronics.com>=0A>Sent:
 Wed, 10 Oct 2012 23:54=0A>Subject: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73=0A>=0A> =0A>-->
 Europa-List message posted by: "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq@onetel.net> Hi
 Brian.=0ATo me it feels like play, i will check again, and slide the Stabl
ators off and =0Acheck inserts making sure they are bonded.=0AI am just a p
ilot but i could have done a better job in designing this linkage.=0AAs thi
s has the possibility of grounding the aircraft for some considerable =0Ati
me, due to the fact that clamps are individually made to size,    Why has,t
 =0Asomething not been done about it.??=0AWhy can,t you get a complete unit
 with clamps already made, so the job could be =0Adone in one go, say a day
, not grounded for 2 months. Alan Read this topic online here: http://forum
s.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385078#385078 arget=_blank>http://www.m
atronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List p://forums.matronics.com=0Ablank>http://
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