Duncan,
I did the same Oilite bushing. It's not broke so I'm not fixing it either.
Bud.
For John and others,
I looked for a post/drawings I did some time ago for a builder who manufactured
his door shoot bolts too short, and too wonky (misaligned).
It happens. Getting the shoot bolts aligned can be a challenge on an existing
plane if they were mucked up. The Classic shoot bolts are very pointy, and the
XS are more rounded. This difference in length made for issues for some as
the Build Manual wanted at lease a 3/8-10mm penetration between the door and
frame.
The Classic tips were a bit long to clear and we had a couple builders
in the States decide to file off the tip to clear their bushings in the sill,
but forgot to adjust for the total length and as a result, the doors departed.
(OOPS)
Classics only had door guides in the doors, and the door frame was reinforced
for
the load with glass. Many of us used the Oilite brass bushings for fuselage
mounted guides in the early days. Worked like a champ. Now the DL07 is
standard
and pretty convenient.
The key was the dimension of each bolt extension when in the locked position and
how far it protruded into the DLO7 on the sill. Those of us making our own
---From scratch had to sometimes extend our bushings out far enough to meet the
requirement,
yet have enough space to clear the door shoot bolt guide so the door
would come down and completely pull down ready to latch without hanging up
on the guides.
After many years 12AY still works darned adequate. Pull the door down and
simply
nudge the door handle forward and it slaps home.
My check of the penetration was easy before installing the interior but more
importantly,
the ideal clearance between shoot bolt and frame guide seemed to be
1/32 inch so a couple of those 1/2 inch L washers for the wing pins worked well
as an alignment spacer during cure up. I slipped them in with some grease
using a 1/2 in aluminum rod to hold it on the fuselage side and then closed the
door and used the rod to initially align then fully closed the door mechanism
latch. The shoot bolt drove out the aluminum rod and I did the following:
I continued to move the sill bushing in my case until the door handle moved
flawlessly
and the two guides were separated only by the spacer.
Later my faster technique did it all in one by reduxing in the door shoot bolt
guide until tacky, then setting the sill DL07 temporarily I closed the door,
aligned
the door mechanism and then openned the door and using the above technique
glued in the Door Sill shoot bolt with washer and allowed to cure.
Sorry I can't find that more detailed text and I thought I had a drawing also.
For those of you doing metal guides and other work around, the most important
thing
is how far the bolt is in the sill guide. Personally, I use 1/2 inch or
12 mm as my minimum penetration distance. Rebuild your rods using the new
manual
if you need better penetration, it's cheap and easy. Then learn how to use
screws to secure your mechanism cover rather than gluing it on. Yuck. Who glues
on what should be an inspection panel? But we can only do that sort of thing
overseas.
As far as trying to save the side of the airplane, that is where the nicely
shaped
metal can help. I just touch up my paint. It never fails, at an airshow
somebody has to slam the door down with the doors closed. I can't fix stupid.
Maybe I can, NO MORE AIRSHOWS!
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