I found the bungee installation really difficult. I ended up making donuts
by knotting the shock cord (i used a clove hitch). You can then stretch
them from one side diagonally over the top to the other. You can also
adjust the load bearing characteristics by adding or removing donuts. Also
a break in a bungee doesnt mean you loose everything.
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
On Sun, Sep 30, 2018 at 7:42 PM Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com> wrote:
> Well said,
>
> The bungee is just fine. Most likely the hopping nose is a bungee too
> loose. Also the cable stop has to be adjusted properly to minimize the
> deflection and prevent a prop strike.
>
>
> I too always put a rubber bumper on the actual frame not the stop post.
I
> didn=99t change my bungee out for the springs until about 300 hours
. It was
> fine, I just wanted to do it.
>
>
> I really liked having it tight enough that I could put 200 pounds on the
> front of the engine and not pull it off the peg. Two men of about 360
> pounds total sitting on both footwells should stretch it off the stop. I
> think the bungee is 12 mm and very tight for the gap between the frame an
d
> firewall. If that space is smaller than 3/8 inch, put on the springs. I
f
> the bungee needs to be changed, I always recommended installing the
> springs, but it is heavier and on the nose. It takes me about 1.5 hours
to
> put the springs on and about the same for the bungee. However, those of
> you who use the metal firewall as on the mono, I feel for you. See my
> previous postings on firewalls for the trigear.
>
>
> Tightening the nose gear bungee is in Chapter 29T. Prep the bungee by
> tying a .025 safety wire around the cut end to squeeze it tightly.
> Remember your scout training on how to whip the end of a rope? Same
> technique with the wire. It keeps the end small and tight. I tie the
> other end off at the bottom, Then thread the wire through the gap and pu
ll
> the bungee through carefully. Pull down tightly and use a wood shim to
> jamb the tight bungee until I can get it back down and around the bottom.
> Two guys help, one on top and one on the bottom. The guy on the bottom c
an
> pull the bungee easier than the guy on top.
>
>
> For the Mod 71 springs, round the ends of the spring to ease slipping it
> on. The rest I have pretty completely reviewed in my Mod changes made so
me
> years ago. I use .016 stainless Reduxed on to the bottom and top spring
> hangar areas to prevent the spring from chewing into the soft 41 series
> steel. It stays clean and neat in there, no rust or paint chipping that
> way. I also hook the spring at the top and hook on to the bottom.
>
>
> If you are wondering how I keep weight off the nose gear, I don=99t
I have
> an exhaust clamp and two threaded rods holding the gear hard against the
> stop while I do the first spring. Then I knock out all the springs with
> the help of my hefty assistants stretching the spring. Wear gloves, as t
he
> spring will pinch/crush your fingers hard.
>
>
> Have fun, I do.
>
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Bud Yerly
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <
> owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com> on behalf of John Wighton <
> john@wighton.net>
> *Sent:* Saturday, September 29, 2018 3:39:47 AM
> *To:* europa-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Europa-List: Re: Noseleg bungee/spring replacement
>
>
> As Jonathan says (he is a perfect pilot by the way) , correct landing
> technique goes a long way in preserving the noseleg whatever way it is
> sprung.
>
> I have done nearly 500 hours in trigear Europa and find the nose gear wit
h
> spring mod very good. Careful technique is required on bumpy ground. My
> springs make a fair bit of noise - which can be heard when taxiing. The
> stick has to be held firmly to prevent the mass balance weight from
> =C3=A2=82=AC=CB=9Cdriving=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2 the stick which caus
es longitudinal pitching - which drives
> the nosegear. This can amplify the apparent nose pitching which some
> pilots attribute solely to the springing of the nosegear.
>
> Holding the nose off is necessary and good technique. I see many flat or
> wheelbarrow landings by ppl and students at my local field - l think ther
e
> is less emphasis on avoiding early nosegear ground contact nowadays. Nev
er
> land a Europa nosegear first.
>
> I recommend the spring MOD, perhaps slightly more care is needed to avoid
> coupled longitudinal pitching where the nosegear and HT mass balance act
in
> unison. The relatively low maintenance requirements are also a positive
> factor.
>
> When taxiing, even at slow speed on bumping ground, the nose can start to
> bob up and down. This can be immediately stopped by slowing down. I als
o
> lock the stick with my knees (either fully back or forward) which avoids
> the mass balance coupling as described above.
>
> --------
> John Wighton
> Europa XS trigear G-IPOD
>
>
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>
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