Jim and Jon,
As you said Jim, there isn't much written but corrosion control is a continuous
battle as is wear.
I have always used Corrosion X Aviation on steel I wish to keep bare. Problem
is you have to do it fairly often. A couple times a year is recommended on
exposed
parts. It does not leave a waxy film, so it is less messy.
Just like you Jim, I use a Lithium type spray lube with teflon as I can't reach
anything in that mono wheel well easily. Anything that pivots or rotates gets
a shot. Corrosion X is a lube but I like something thicker I can see that
sticks.
Wheel bearings I pack in Aeroshell 22 including the Airmaster prop so I only
need
one grease. However consult with Timken bearings and Airmaster product
literature
for other recommended greases for different temperatures and or wet conditions.
Any brass or oil lite bushing gets straight machine oil or a thin spray of the
white lithium.
As you know I do a 25 hour, so I wash the airplane, fly it to dry it off, pull
the stabs, lube the stab tube and fittings with Aeroshell 22 and squirt
Corrosion
X into the tube where it rusts on the end. Corrosion X on the pins and a
drop of oil on the throttle pivot clamps. Your idea of anti seize isn't a bad
idea due to the dissimilar metals.
All hinges get a thin machine oil at a minimum and on annual get a thorough lube
with Corrosion X. All MW type bearings get a drop of oil. Internal MWs get
oil on the annual.
The mono wheel and spark plugs get anti seize on install. The mono LG25 and 26
should have anti seize in my opinion or you may not be able to get them free
when doing a tire change in the field.
At the 10 year point, the MW4 and 5 can be lubricated by unscrewing them and
putting
a dab of grease in the threaded hole and screw them back in and listen for
the grease to squeeze out as there is a small hole just for that in the base.
Then wipe the excess off. Normally just a bit of light weight oil every year
is enough though. I'm in Florida and it is a corrosion nightmare down here,
so I lube often.
Don't forget to keep the prop flange free of corrosion and the engine needs some
TLC also. Keep up on those steel screws which corrode without some protection.
The turbo gets penetrating oil and cycled a few times as it always gets squeaky
around 25 hours.
You Classic owners, your exhaust system has stainless upper tubes and plane
steel
on the lower. Consider using exhaust paint or header paint on the lower muffler
to prevent rust through.
AC 43 is my bible, but as you all know, everyone has a better idea. As for me,
ANY LUBE is better than none. The same was the advice from John and Roger.
Grease on bearings and oil on the rest.
Avoid off the shelf WD 40 general purpose squirt oil as it is designed for WATER
DISPLACEMENT and as a light weight lube but it does wash off easily and seems
to actually clean the part so it rusts better. WD 40 products do make
lubricants
for many applications. Consult their website.
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of h&jeuropa
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 8:26 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Mono undercarriage lubrication?
Jon,
I was hoping Bud or Nev or Nigel would reply to this post as they have a lot of
experience. The manual doesn't provide much instruction about lubrication.
What we have found is that most moving parts require lubrication. We use a
spray
lubricant purchased at a DIY store that supposedly leaves a teflon barrier
for most places including those swing arm bushes. We also use it on all hinges,
door mechanism, shoot bolts, rod ends and bearings (these last two probably
are unnecessary since they should be lubed and sealed for life). We use a heavy
anti seize paste on sliding connections, especially the torque tubes into
the tailplanes and the front and rear pins on the wings. We also lube all pip
pins with anti seize. It makes a mess but it is easy to disassemble next time!
We installed door locks and we lube them with lock lube, a graphite lube
available at DIY stores.
Hope this helps.
Jim
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