Hi John
If you have a Classic then just remove the exhaust and the stainless
steel firewall over the tunnel in the engine bay and you have easy
access to change to bungee. Don't forget to check the tension BEFORE
reassembly! The gear should retract and drop with almost no effort.
Regards
Pete
On 07/10/14 10:15, John Heykoop wrote:
> Hi John, to replace the bungee cord you have got a choice. Either
> remove the engine and the firewall or do the job from underneath via
> the wheel well. I replaced mine last year via the wheel well. It is a
> filthy job (particularly if you have been operating off grass) but it
> is quick and relatively easy.
>
> Start by buying about 30 feet of 3/8" standard type bungee cord. That
> is a good deal more than you are going to need once you have tensioned
> the cord, but it makes the job easier if you have plenty of cord you
> can pull on.
>
> Next use an engine hoist to lift the fuselage off the ground. It is
> also worth rigging up secondary supports via the spar tunnel and
> underneath the tail, just in case anything goes wrong - you don't want
> the fuselage to come crashing down on top of you when you are pulling
> hard on the bungee cord.
>
> Next you have to remove the wheel. Remember that the swinging arm will
> want to snap into its retracted position when the wheel is removed, so
> make sure that the gear safety catch is engaged. Even so I felt very
> unsafe, so reaching over the top of the wheel I cut the bungee cord
> before actually removing the wheel.
>
> Next remove the LG04 pin and fold the shock absorber assembly out of
> the way (just secure it with a piece of string). You now have
> reasonably good access to the bungee cord (it helps to have long arms)
> and it should be easy to remove the old cord.
>
> You can now install the new bungee cord. I found that due to limited
> space between the frame and my Singleton firewall it was fairly
> difficult to thread through, so I attached some locking wire to the
> end of the bungee, and pulled the locking wire with a pair of pliers
> before grabbing the bungee cord.
>
> In order to tension the bungee cord correctly you will have to attach
> temporary weights to the swinging arm to simulate the weight of the
> wheel and its stub axles. I used a broomstick as a temporary axle from
> which I hung two bags of sand.
>
> Hope this helps. Best of luck with this job!
>
> Regards
> John
>
> XS mono G-JHKP
>
>
> On 6 Oct 2014, at 10:21, John Archer <77alembert@gmail.com
> <mailto:77alembert@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>> While changing the shock absorber on my mono wheel I noticed that the
>> 6 mm roll pin that actuates the flaps and outriggers via LG08S had
>> worked it's way out of it's hole by about 15 mm (see build manual 21
>> M-4). I was able to get a G clamp across the flange and push it back
>> into position and it is a good fit with no play.
>> I would however, like to ensure that this doesn't happen again. As
>> the pin is hollow I was thinking of putting a 3 mm bolt through the
>> pin with Nyloc nuts and washers at each end. Would this be acceptable
>> and has anyone else had this problem?
>>
>> Changing the shock absorber increased prop clearance by 80 mm as the
>> old "red" one had become "squashed" over time. I had to use clamps
>> to assist putting the M8 bolts and getting down to 79 MM between
>> plates, this has made the suspension much harder than previously. I
>> will have a completely different aircraft to fly next time out!
>>
>> On another subject, how much of what diameter bungee is required for
>> the mono wheel retraction system and above all, how do you go about
>> replacing it?
>>
>> Regards
>>
>> John
>> Mono 192
>> *
>>
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