Hi John, to replace the bungee cord you have got a choice. Either remove the
engine and the firewall or do the job from underneath via the wheel well. I
replaced mine last year via the wheel well. It is a filthy job (particularl
y if you have been operating off grass) but it is quick and relatively easy.
Start by buying about 30 feet of 3/8" standard type bungee cord. That is a g
ood deal more than you are going to need once you have tensioned the cord, b
ut it makes the job easier if you have plenty of cord you can pull on.
Next use an engine hoist to lift the fuselage off the ground. It is also wor
th rigging up secondary supports via the spar tunnel and underneath the tail
, just in case anything goes wrong - you don't want the fuselage to come cra
shing down on top of you when you are pulling hard on the bungee cord.
Next you have to remove the wheel. Remember that the swinging arm will want t
o snap into its retracted position when the wheel is removed, so make sure t
hat the gear safety catch is engaged. Even so I felt very unsafe, so reachin
g over the top of the wheel I cut the bungee cord before actually removing t
he wheel.
Next remove the LG04 pin and fold the shock absorber assembly out of the way
(just secure it with a piece of string). You now have reasonably good acces
s to the bungee cord (it helps to have long arms) and it should be easy to r
emove the old cord.
You can now install the new bungee cord. I found that due to limited space b
etween the frame and my Singleton firewall it was fairly difficult to thread
through, so I attached some locking wire to the end of the bungee, and pull
ed the locking wire with a pair of pliers before grabbing the bungee cord.
In order to tension the bungee cord correctly you will have to attach tempor
ary weights to the swinging arm to simulate the weight of the wheel and its s
tub axles. I used a broomstick as a temporary axle from which I hung two bag
s of sand.
Hope this helps. Best of luck with this job!
Regards
John
XS mono G-JHKP
> On 6 Oct 2014, at 10:21, John Archer <77alembert@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hello,
> While changing the shock absorber on my mono wheel I noticed that the 6 mm
roll pin that actuates the flaps and outriggers via LG08S had worked it's w
ay out of it's hole by about 15 mm (see build manual 21 M-4). I was able to g
et a G clamp across the flange and push it back into position and it is a go
od fit with no play.
> I would however, like to ensure that this doesn't happen again. As the pi
n is hollow I was thinking of putting a 3 mm bolt through the pin with Nyloc
nuts and washers at each end. Would this be acceptable and has anyone else h
ad this problem?
>
> Changing the shock absorber increased prop clearance by 80 mm as the old "
red" one had become "squashed" over time. I had to use clamps to assist put
ting the M8 bolts and getting down to 79 MM between plates, this has made th
e suspension much harder than previously. I will have a completely differen
t aircraft to fly next time out!
>
> On another subject, how much of what diameter bungee is required for the m
ono wheel retraction system and above all, how do you go about replacing it?
>
> Regards
>
> John
> Mono 192
>
>
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