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Re: Europa-List: Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay

Subject: Re: Europa-List: Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay
From: Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 26 May 2014 11:20:57
Tony,
Yes, you will have overlap, and as you say, it is not a bad thing.  

As for 3D thingys...  Craftsmanship, is what we learn and show off on 
our hand built steeds.  No fiberglass airplane comes out of the mold and 
fits perfectly.  Your gear angles will not be the same as mine or anyone 
elses.  Trim and fit.  The cockpit module changes the fuselage side 
shape, as does the bulkheads in the rear.  The wings shape will be 
determined by how you put on your skins and if you properly prepped the 
skins to lay dead flat.  I have made paper templates for the install of 
the bid tapes but not once have they worked flawlessly as we all don't 
make, hold, or position the tapes the same.  I know of no manufacture 
that makes an aircraft that you shake the box and an airplane falls out. 
 Some of the factory built rag wing aircraft are close as the envelopes 
can be shrunk to fit.  Even the predrilled "just add rivets" aircraft 
don't fit right all the time, and no cad drawing of one autopilot 
install works from plane to plane.  

If you have to repair a factory built plane such as an SLSA, you will 
find the new parts don't fit very often.  That is why there are sheet 
metal guys and fiberglass guys to fix this sort of miss match.  Not even 
at Boeings assembly plants do things fit exactly.  When major components 
are assembled, they have skilled, highly paid riggers to fix the 
problems with the floor engineers looking on. 

Enjoy building and learning a craft.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Tony Renshaw<mailto:tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com> 
  To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com> 
  Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2014 7:43 PM
  Subject: Re: Europa-List: Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay


  Hi Bud, 
  Quick question, and no doubt an easy one, and I think I know the 
answer=85.what is dart the corners?? If its cut and overlap, well 
you=92d end up with double the thickness of plies in the corners to the 
number of layups, which probably isn=92t a bad thing at all. Its a real 
shame there isn=92t some sort of 3 D wand thingo that you can beam 
around inside the leg wells, and it digitises the interior, and then 
place your legs accordingly, and digitise them too, and then 
electronically make up the ply so that it fits perfectly in every 
corner. Maybe I was born before my time  ;-)
  Regards
  Tony Renshaw


  On 26 May 2014, at 9:26 am, Bud Yerly 
<budyerly@msn.com<mailto:budyerly@msn.com>> wrote:


    Kevin,
     
    I normally do the first layup with a single dry ply and dart the 
corners as in any proper layup technique.  I prefer not to see my 
clients make tapes as it tends to make for more voids and sticky messes 
when it goes a bit wrong.  The uni is applied to the inside of the bay 
after the bid.  During the layup of the dry glass procedure, the sticky 
initial layer and flox makes placement of the white glass in the dark 
hole and cutting and darting easier for me.  Good sharp shears are 
essential.  In the dry glass layup, you will use more epoxy as gravity 
works 24/7 so simply peel ply and mop up the excess when done and let it 
cure.  Use just a bit of denatured alcohol if the puddle is getting 
sticky.  Remember to leave a tab to pull the peel ply by.
     
    Go slow, take your time on getting your ply pieces fit well.  My 
clients have me do the cuts as I am faster, but don't trust the manual 
cutouts, make a template from cardboard and fit it in place.  Be sure to 
leave working room around the mod 52 tube and socket.  You will find 
that the dry glass layups can go fairly fast, but with the top on it is 
a real back breaker.  Get yourself some good cool running LED lights for 
good visibility (incandescent bulbs make it a very hot job in Florida 
and the glue kicks very fast) .  A small 4 by 4 inch mirror is essential 
to check for voids and dry bid.  In places it is necessary to cut the 
handle of the brush down and round it off so it doesn't snag anything to 
get in those corners well.
     
    It is nice to have one person glassing one side, and I on the other, 
with a helper mixing 100gram cups of epoxy as we go.  I've done the 
project in 4 days but prefer 7.
     
    My back can't take it so I do the inner and outer initial 
reinforcements on day 1.
    Day 2 I do the final line up of the tubes and gear and check 
everything absolutely right and the aircraft jigged dead solid.  Redux 
in the tubes.
    Day 3 I install the first rib and allow to firm up then lay glass 
over it and allow to cure.  (With the top on it may be best to set the 
rib, peel ply and allow to cure.  Glass the next day.
    Day 4 is Rib 2 unless I work a long Day 3 and install rib two over 
tacky glass and bond in both in one day.  You gotta be quick and good 
for that and have a kit with the top off.
    Day 5 are Rib 3 and 4
    Day 6 grind the tops and clean up, then apply uni.  You can pop the 
gear and finish up or...
    Day 7 Pop out the gear, finish the outside layups, and reinstall the 
gear, pull the fuselage from the jig and put on the brakes and wheels...
     
    Working alone, make it a half a day for 14 days and save your back 
and make it a more enjoyable easily paced project...
     
    Bob Borger posted how I do my jig setup in my shop, and if memory 
serves, it took a full two weeks to pull the gear, clean up and put in 
the tri-gear, we mounted hand brake cylinders in the tunnel per my 
standard and closed up the belly with new firewall with 4 of us working. 

     
    Regards,
    Bud Yerly
    CFC, Inc.
     

     

    > Subject: Europa-List: Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay
    > From: kelv@kdweston.biz<mailto:kelv@kdweston.biz>
    > Date: Sun, 25 May 2014 02:34:23 -0700
    > To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
    > 
<kelv@kdweston.biz<mailto:kelv@kdweston.biz>>
    > 
    > Hi All,
    > 
    > I know this has been discussed before but I am just preparing the 
baggage bay for the landing gear reinforcement layups and have a few 
questions for those that have gone before me and successfully completed 
this mega task.
    > 
    > The manual states =93 layup 2 plies of bid over the entire 
area of the baggage bay up to the level of the top of the centre tunnel.
    > 
    > a) Is this best done in one piece of bid? The manual does not 
state any preference. What have others done?
    > 
    > b) If done in one piece of bid, is it okay to cut the corner folds 
and overlap? This would certainly make for a simpler and neater 
installation and would also increase the number of layers in the 
corners. Surely a good thing?
    > 
    > I intend to layup the bid on plastic, my normal method for easier 
handling, before attempting to introduce to the baggage bay.
    > 
    > Next, the manual states - add 2 plies of uni, to the same height, 
onto the baggage bay rear bulkhead from the sidewall to the central 
tunnel, with the fibres running spanwise.
    > 
    > c) I am assuming this is just on the inner aft side of the baggage 
bay box?
    > Also, there is no mention of any overlap onto the floor, sides or 
centre tunnel, so just into the corners then?
    > 
    > Interested to hear what others have done for this part of the 
build and what is considered best practice for this layup.
    > 
    > The fuselage top is still off so slightly easier but the back 
support belt and pain relief cream are standing by!
    > 
    > Many thanks.
    > 
    > --------
    > Regards
    > 
    > Kelv Weston
    > Kit 497
    > kelv@kdweston.biz<mailto:kelv@kdweston.biz>
    > 
    > 
    > 
    > 
    > Read this topic online here:
    > 
    > 
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423762#423762<http://forums
.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423762#423762>
    > 
    > 
    > 
    > 
    > 
    > 
    > 
    > 
    > 
    > 


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