Kevin,
Check my site at EuropaOwners.org. On the main page (
http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=60232 ) there=92s an
album in the upper right corner titled Tri-Gear Conversion. It has a
fairly complete pictorial documentation of the work at Bud=92s shop. Go
slow, take your time, it=92s a worthwhile conversion to reduce the
personal stress of landing to just about zero.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (50 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger@mac.com
On May 25, 2014, at 6:26 PM, Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com> wrote:
Kevin,
I normally do the first layup with a single dry ply and dart the corners
as in any proper layup technique. I prefer not to see my clients make
tapes as it tends to make for more voids and sticky messes when it goes
a bit wrong. The uni is applied to the inside of the bay after the bid.
During the layup of the dry glass procedure, the sticky initial layer
and flox makes placement of the white glass in the dark hole and cutting
and darting easier for me. Good sharp shears are essential. In the dry
glass layup, you will use more epoxy as gravity works 24/7 so simply
peel ply and mop up the excess when done and let it cure. Use just a
bit of denatured alcohol if the puddle is getting sticky. Remember to
leave a tab to pull the peel ply by.
Go slow, take your time on getting your ply pieces fit well. My clients
have me do the cuts as I am faster, but don't trust the manual cutouts,
make a template from cardboard and fit it in place. Be sure to leave
working room around the mod 52 tube and socket. You will find that the
dry glass layups can go fairly fast, but with the top on it is a real
back breaker. Get yourself some good cool running LED lights for good
visibility (incandescent bulbs make it a very hot job in Florida and the
glue kicks very fast) . A small 4 by 4 inch mirror is essential to
check for voids and dry bid. In places it is necessary to cut the
handle of the brush down and round it off so it doesn't snag anything to
get in those corners well.
It is nice to have one person glassing one side, and I on the other,
with a helper mixing 100gram cups of epoxy as we go. I've done the
project in 4 days but prefer 7.
My back can't take it so I do the inner and outer initial reinforcements
on day 1.
Day 2 I do the final line up of the tubes and gear and check everything
absolutely right and the aircraft jigged dead solid. Redux in the
tubes.
Day 3 I install the first rib and allow to firm up then lay glass over
it and allow to cure. (With the top on it may be best to set the rib,
peel ply and allow to cure. Glass the next day.
Day 4 is Rib 2 unless I work a long Day 3 and install rib two over tacky
glass and bond in both in one day. You gotta be quick and good for that
and have a kit with the top off.
Day 5 are Rib 3 and 4
Day 6 grind the tops and clean up, then apply uni. You can pop the gear
and finish up or...
Day 7 Pop out the gear, finish the outside layups, and reinstall the
gear, pull the fuselage from the jig and put on the brakes and wheels...
Working alone, make it a half a day for 14 days and save your back and
make it a more enjoyable easily paced project...
Bob Borger posted how I do my jig setup in my shop, and if memory
serves, it took a full two weeks to pull the gear, clean up and put in
the tri-gear, we mounted hand brake cylinders in the tunnel per my
standard and closed up the belly with new firewall with 4 of us working.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
CFC, Inc.
> Subject: Europa-List: Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay
> From: kelv@kdweston.biz
> Date: Sun, 25 May 2014 02:34:23 -0700
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I know this has been discussed before but I am just preparing the
baggage bay for the landing gear reinforcement layups and have a few
questions for those that have gone before me and successfully completed
this mega task.
>
> The manual states =93 layup 2 plies of bid over the entire area
of the baggage bay up to the level of the top of the centre tunnel.
>
> a) Is this best done in one piece of bid? The manual does not state
any preference. What have others done?
>
> b) If done in one piece of bid, is it okay to cut the corner folds and
overlap? This would certainly make for a simpler and neater installation
and would also increase the number of layers in the corners. Surely a
good thing?
>
> I intend to layup the bid on plastic, my normal method for easier
handling, before attempting to introduce to the baggage bay.
>
> Next, the manual states - add 2 plies of uni, to the same height, onto
the baggage bay rear bulkhead from the sidewall to the central tunnel,
with the fibres running spanwise.
>
> c) I am assuming this is just on the inner aft side of the baggage bay
box?
> Also, there is no mention of any overlap onto the floor, sides or
centre tunnel, so just into the corners then?
>
> Interested to hear what others have done for this part of the build
and what is considered best practice for this layup.
>
> The fuselage top is still off so slightly easier but the back support
belt and pain relief cream are standing by!
>
> Many thanks.
>
> --------
> Regards
>
> Kelv Weston
> Kit 497
> kelv@kdweston.biz
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423762#423762
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
|