On Sep 7, 2009, at 4:06 PM, Graham Singleton wrote:
> That's the way I did it Fred, very satisfying when its finished.
Right on Graham...I'm not surprised that your keen eye prompted you
to go the extra mile.
> Make sure you do something about the upward flexing of the rear
> corner caused by the tension in the door strut.
Yes. Without purchasing the factory kit, I sawed off the lug,
repositioned it according to the geometry of the factory mod, and
reinforced the frame with 3 layers of bid extending 3" each side of
the ball, and lapping up the sides of the lug. What's been unexpected
is that with the compression strut installed, I'm finding when the
door is closed, it's necessary to pull the rear inwards to align the
rear shoot bolts...guess that's why I've read about guys installing
little handles and indicator lights.
> btw the factory are planning to revert to push rod rudder drive,
> they already have my jig for the rudder socket fitting CS29b. So if
> you want my rudder mod talk to the factory.
You may recall I've already purchased your tail wheel mod...works a
treat...even managed to get those pesky tension springs inside the
tailcone...thanks.
On another note, I'm fitting my homemade splash mold cover plates
over the cutouts for the latch mechanisms and see that the manual
calls for them to be Reduxed in place. Doing so prevents access to the
head of the AN3-12A bolt which secures the exterior door handle. Once
the cover is glued on, it would appear impossible to remove or
reinstall the handle, unless a hole (not called for in the manual)
large enough for a socket is cut in the cover. Although the manual
states that the purpose of the cover is to strengthen the door frame,
I'm tempted to secure the cover w/ a few small flathead bolts tapped
into the frame.
Comments anyone?
Fred
A194
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