Hi Bud,
Thanks for the response. I used aluminum tubing for the long runs, and high
quality, high pressure (Gates) rubber for the tank outputs to tank switch
valve, and the one short run from the tank switch valve to the 2 pumps. That
is what the thin-walled pvc tubing was for, so that the hose can be easily
rethreaded in 5 years (or whenever), and keep it away from the
tight-clearance (roll and pitch) controls. I have been considering putting
the fuel supply hose on the floor instead, and using the pvc 'conduit' for
electrical purposes, (especially since it is higher than the fuel lines).
For the aluminum tubing anchor points, I cut short pieces of the 3/8"
aluminum tubing, and flared them, to create a base for the araldite/flox
that would hold it to the glass, and drilled holes in the other end, to be
used for a quality tie-wrap(which uses metal in the locking mechanism, and a
short piece of the Gates 3/8" hose used as a rubber standoff. It is a
relatively lightweight solution (compared to some), and seems to work well.
Of course, since I have gone to the trouble to fabricate stand-offs for the
fuel line, I think I will leave the aluminum runs where they are. You are
right, it is too late :-).
Thanks for the detailed notes on the order of procedure. I had planned to
install almost everything before the top went on, too. It does seem like
crawling around the back would be a hateful job. The pitch bulkhead is
installed, already. If there is any twist in the tail (I have made
measurements, but will be re-verifying again), I am hoping that getting
everything true, it will hold that way, after temporarily clecoing the top
on. Once done, I should be able to de-cleco, and do the rest of the work.
Upon re-clecoing, it should be pulled back into proper position (I hope). My
rudder cable will require about another 15 to 20 degrees of change, and I
might use UHDMW (Ultra High Density Molecular Weight?) material, with a
radius of 2.5" minimum, for the cable to rub on (I have heard it is very
slick), or another pulley. This would keep the rudder cable lower in the
module, and free up the space higher up, but I am going to leave it for
later, to find the optimum position based on where the engine cage and any
other possible items will affect the routing. If all this does not work, my
contingency plan is to use similar cable-size sheathed brake cable of the
type used for motorcycles. It can be custom made, and no worries about
anything being rubbed on this way, and the weight is not much more, in my
estimation, especially if it is used just to get through the controls and
the fuel tank. But that probably will not happen. The first solutions will
most likely work just fine.
Questions: When you talk about "jigging" the fuselage, what are you thinking
about? Clecoing on the top fuselage, and getting everything lined up could
be considered a type of jig, or are you thinking of a tail-twister (torquer)
as a jig, to correct for any potential twist in the tail? I am using about 6
old shelf planks, with cutouts that simulate the shape of the bottom of the
fuselage, to support it along the bottom, with 3 castoring wheels, to roll
it around with ease. Maybe this is the type of jig you speak of???
By the way, if anyone (or you too, Bud) could let me know if the aluminum
line and tube look like they might hit the flap tube (my question is still
outstanding), let me know. I am just trying to get a 'feel' for their exit
out the back of the module, and I think I can modify the odds of them being
a problem, by bending or repositioning them now(while I easily can), before
the module gets stuck down. I am feeling too lazy to get out all of the flap
parts, position them, and finding out for myself. It is also made a bit more
difficult, since the hinge line is below the lower fuselage wall. It is a
little hard to judge with the 2D picture, and if that is the case, then I
understand. I will find a way to forge ahead.
Regards, and thanks to all,
Greg
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ALAN YERLY
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 4:23 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fuel line position exiting the cockpit module
Wished you would have asked earlier.
Just wire tie the fuel lines neatly to the floor. The gear and flap is
normally installed and I fit the baggage bay in before I run the lines. I
jig the fuselage well and don't put on the top until all the work in the
rear is done. I hate crawling back in the back. Better to jig the fuselage
properly, ensure it is square. Then put in the flight control rods, tail
tube, pitch bulkhead, gear, flaps, rudder cables, autopilots, wiring,
antennas, fuel system, batteries and other stuff in the back, then fit the
top. Makes all those lines and fittings etc. much easier to de-conflict. I
sheath my rudder cables when I can with 1/4 or 3/16 poly tube (like on the
brakes) to guide them through the saddle area to make sure the fuel lines,
wires, etc. don't interfere.
Keep it light and simple, PVC can be heavy if you use it a lot. Those who
put the top on before all the junk is in, have bruises and another 200 hours
of work.
Just a thought.
Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Fuchs <mailto:gregoryf.flyboy@comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 6:04 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Fuel line position exiting the cockpit module
To the Gurus that came earlier:
It seems that the fuel lines exiting the back of the module might come into
contact (or get close) with the flap control tube. Without going through the
hassle of dimensioning the flap system to find out, what do you think is the
best way to handle this?
I could cut the plastic guide-tube at exit, and bend the aluminum fuel
tubing down and to port, or bend both. Will this work? Any other ideas?
BTW, I have a Europa Tri-gear with electric flap positioning.
Thanks for any direction to follow or consider,
Greg Fuchs, A050
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