Hi Frans
"Don't solder before you crimp, the connection will eventually fail.
Before it completely fails, it starts to give temperature related
Intermitteni connections, making troubleshooting very difficult, and it
generates excess heat on the connection where the resistance is high,
enough to start a fire if the current is high enough.
Just don't do it, and if you did already so, fix it before you start
trusting your life to it."
Thx. for the reply.
Like I stated, plan to crimp first then solder on the "real deal".
That said I would like to visit why as you indicate a high resistance joint will
in fact occur with a soldered first, then crimped joint? Please elaborate, as
I am not quite certain as to the why after I got to thinking about it.
First off I machined ID of copper alloy 145 where it just barely allows
insertion
of #4 CCA, ID is .344"
See picture #12:
http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=album266&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
Thus wire is a pretty darn good fit. On one of my sample pieces I was fooling
with
I soldered through a 1/8" hole and allowed solder to flow till I just saw
it out wire end.
Just for ha has I tried a crimp on it. This is not something I plan to do on the
"real deal", but when I crimped the sample it seemed to work quite well meaning
that I think the solder joint under the crimp did not get too disturbed, and
the tension on the crimpers were about the same with a solderless crimp. The
solder joint is ~ .625" long thus the crimp is only a portion, perhaps half
that length. There is what appears to be undisturbed solder ~ .1625" before and
.1625" after the crimp.
Here is what I am having a little bit of a hard time with, under the crimp true
things will get a little distorted, but the 63 37 solder, the aluminium wire
with copper clad and the copper lug are all pretty malleable and after thinking
about what is going on I kind of think compressing them together into a compact
package will not in fact create a fatigued stress riser joint?? Even if it
did there is the solder before and after the crimp??
Again strictly a hypothetical case, this joint will be seeing cranking amps of
~ 50 amps for not very long, and probably a continuous drain of under 10 amps
for longer than an hour, and charge max. of lets say best case 40 amps engine
at take off power with SD 20S and internal generator roaring, and perhaps 100
amps for a very short time if I was desperate enough to use a super automobile
for a jump on a completely dead battery.
Just trying to gain more knowledge on things that might not be what they seem.
Thanking you in advance for reply.
Sincerely
Ron Parigoris
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
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