Europaphiles,
The Rotax 9xx engines have a fixed timing determined electronically by
tabs on the flywheel & sensors on the frame. See my build web page in
the signature block. I have an album on the Rotax 9xx school. On the
first page of the album are pics and comments on the timing system.
Good building and great flying,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S
http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL
(99.9% done) Presently fighting gremlins in the starting circuit.
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
On Jul 26, 2008, at 20:26, craig bastin wrote:
> I am sure the Rotax people would be able to check the timing in a
> couple of minutes.
> given I havent had a chance to get a really close look at a rotax
> engine I couldnt comment on how they set the initial spark timing,
> If you had access to
> a pully or flywheel that runs at crankshaft speed it would be
> possible to create your own timing marks, but it requires you to
> remove valve covers and a spark plug so you
> can determine when cylinder 1 is at TOP Dead Centre (ie when the
> fuel air mix would be burning if the engine was running)mark the
> pully or flywheel
> then coming back the correct number of degrees and creating a mark
> or pointer on a fixed part of the engine next to the pully/flywheel.
> You can then use an inductive pickup
> timing light that will detect the spark pulse running to the plug
> and flash a strobe beam in time with the spark. Point the light at
> your timing mark with the engine running and you
> can see the mark on the pully and the pointer should line up each
> flash of the stobe.
> As for the engine running fine, it may actually run slightly better
> that normal at higher rpm as the advanced spark gives the fuel air
> mix longer to burn, too much advance
> is a bad thing though as it is much the same as your engine pre-
> igniting which can happen with lower rated fuels which can do damage
> to your engine.
>
> good luck
>
> craig
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> ]On Behalf Of Karl Heindl
> Sent: Sunday, 27 July 2008 9:46 AM
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Coolant overheating
>
> Hi Craig,
>
> I am quite sure about the temperature. When it reaches about 120, it
> boils over into the overflow bottle,
> which is what I would expect. And in the cruise it is normal.
> The ignition timing is something new and I wouldn't know how to
> check that. The engine is running just fine.
> I will fly over to the Rotax agent this coming week and see if he
> has any ideas.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Karl
>
>
> <html><div></div>
>
>
> From: craigb@onthenet.com.au
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Coolant overheating
> Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 08:47:25 +1000
>
>
> Karl, just a thought here, but do you KNOW your temp sender is
> correct, IE stuck it in a pot of just boiled water which you can
> know the
> temp of between one or two degrees of error and subjected it to
> vibration etc by shaking it etc. When I was racing we had problems
> from time to time with faulty sender units that would
> vary by as much as 20 deg C. and this variation would change across
> minutes or even instantly in some cases. It was a major pain to
> work with, when you expect an engine to be running close to max
> temps, and then it spikes 20 degrees over max. Might i suggest
> you try a fluid filled type sealed unit to run as a comparison so
> you can see if there is a difference.
>
> The other thing i would be looking at if you believe the temps are
> accurate, is your spark timing, excessively advanced timing will
> cause high temps at low RPM. ie warm up
> and taxi. but will not be as noticable at higher RPM. I have seen 20
> - 30 degree C increase in temps from around 5 degrees of advance
> from say 10 to 15 degrees BTDC. high
> levels of spark timing advance are generally helpfull at higher RPM
> but not much benefit at low RPM. Some of the modern bike engines
> vary spark timing by as much
> as 20 degrees depending on conditions.
>
> hope this helps
>
> craig
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> ]On Behalf Of Karl Heindl
> Sent: Sunday, 27 July 2008 7:55 AM
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Coolant overheating
>
> Bob,
>
> I certainly have, plus all the other gaps near the air intake. I
> sealed off the gills and opened up the area at the
> bottom aft of the radiators for main exit.
>
> Karl
>
> <html><div></div>
>
>
> From: ptag.dev@tiscali.co.uk
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Coolant overheating
> Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 22:13:02 +0100
>
>
> Hi! Karl
> Have you blocked the gap between cowl and underside of oil cooler?
> Bob H
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Karl Heindl
> Sent: 26 July 2008 13:30
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Coolant overheating
>
>
> I have been unable to solve my overheating problem:
> I had replaced all glycol coolant and all hoses. Ever since then the
> coolant temperatures on the ground and in the climb are way ahead of
> the oil temperature.
> After warming up the engine the coolant is typically 25 C (45 F)
> hotter than the oil. The oil and cylinder head temperatures are
> always normal. Only in the cruise am I getting normal readings. The
> coolant temp. probe is in the coolant and is accurate.
> I have run out of ideas. Has anyone got any clue about this mystery ?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Karl
>
>
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