Hello Jeffrey,
1) The current manual recommends not floxing the AN4-20A bolt in at this
stage, as you will probably need to re-align it later at the final setup
stage.
2) My spar (from an XS) is 28 mm thick, and the bellcrank bearing is 18 mm,
so you have 46 mm total - with the 5 mm counterbore that comes down to 41mm.
The length of AN4-20A bolt is 42 mm from under the head to the beginning of
the thread (at least the one I have) , so I would have thought you should
have room for the 3 washers. It worked OK for me. Are you sure it's an
AN4-20 you've got? Is your spar thicker than 28 mm?
3) These bolts need to be cut off just beyond the nut anyway (later) to
leave only 2 threads showing beyond the nut to provide adequate clearance.
So you would be better with an undrilled bolt in case you end up trimming it
through the hole. But if you don't flox it in now, you can easily change it
later if there is a problem. You will be removing the bellcrank several
times during assembly anyway.
Hope some of that may help.
Regards,
Keith Hickling,
New Zealand.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey J Paris" <jeffrey-j-paris@excite.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2008 12:11 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Hardware Question on Aileron quick-connect system?
> <jeffrey-j-paris@excite.com>
>
>
> Dear Listers of Europa,
>
> As you may or may not know I bought Classic Monowheel Kit #A012 from a
> prior builder who did not get very far, we have 563 hours into the build
> and are loving every minute of the challenge.
>
> Currently, we are working on mounting W16(S) quick connect bellcrank to
> the starboard wing. Per instructions, we drilled the .25"d hole. We then
> countersunk with a .75" spade cutter on the front face of the spar to a
> 5mm depth.
>
> No here are where things go weird, the directions verbatim:
>
> "Slide an AN4-20A bolt, with a EUR001 washer on it, through the hole in
> the starboard spar from the front so that the head of the bolt enters the
> counter bore. Place 2 EU001 washers, the W16S (S) bellcrank, another
> EUR001 washer and finally screw on the MS210042-4 Nut. Finally fill the
> hole with flox."
>
> OK seems easy enough, except the AN bolt is too short to meet the
> practices standard of having 2-5 thread lengths showing above the nut. By
> my measurements I'm about 5mm too short. In addition, the AN4-20A bolt
> I was supplied with is actually a AN4-20 bolt with a cotter pin hole.
> Also, by putting a washer on the head of the bolt first off it also makes
> the head of the bolt stick up out of our 5mm counter bore, do you even
> need that one since it's going to be floxed into place anyway?
>
> Well it got us thinking are we interpreting the instructions wrong, or
> maybe we are following thing correctly and maybe there is an error in the
> manual. Moreover, in the exploded views for these mechanisms there are no
> particular call outs of the parts to double check.
>
> I guess our main problem we buying an orphaned kit is the fact that our
> prior builder tended to further "kit" and reassemble parts for future
> assembly ( plus a fair amount of jumping around), so as you can guess we
> spend a fair amount of time re-organizing and double checking our work in
> an attempt to keep our project on track: Especially in keeping up with
> the MODS.
>
> If anybody has a quick answer please let me know. Thank you for your
> time, consideration and expertise.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Jeff and Peter Paris Kit # A012 Monowheel classic
>
>
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