No, I was refering to TP-4 And TP-6, but I was totally wrong in my
thinking. Ther is no need to even continue the discussion. I am
embarassed by my stupidity at times, this being one of them.
Vaughn
----- Original Message -----
From: Tony Wickens
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tailplane design
Vaughn
It would certainly have more bearing surface which is good but if you
do mean TP12 how would you get it through the TP11 bearing?
Tony
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Davies
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 5:13 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Tailplane design
Vaughn,
Are you sure you mean TP6 retention? My understanding is that a
tight fit at TP6 is not desireable because it can transfer loads to TP6
if there is play at other points in the sytem and this can lead to TP6
disbonding from the tail plane.
Your method may be more appropriate at the TP12/ TP14 locations,
which is, I suspect what you really meant.
Regards
Brian Davies
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Europa List
Sent: 29 June 2007 15:45
To: europa-list@matronics.com
Subject: Europa-List: Tailplane design
The person that started my kit did not have faith in the tail plane
design, nor do I. He designed and built a pinned clamping system that
fits inside the fuselage that would prevent any play from developing due
to wear. I don't feel that the retention between TP-4 and Tp-6 tubes to
be adequate because of the thin wall. If any play at all was present at
assembly, it seems that the slight movement would increase the size of
the holes to where it became excessive. I've attached a PDF file ofwhat
I would like to do to change it, but am not sure that it can be done
with 100% realiability. Maybe there are some engineers out there that
can. The 3/8" modification has not been done, so the idea of drilling
out slightly smaller than 3/8" and driving increasingly larger pins
through to expand the holes to 3/8" while work hardening them seems to
be my other recourse. BTW, my old Sears garden tractor used the same
method of attaching the front axle to the frame as the present system of
a pin through thin walled metal and assembly that had worn so badly in
one year that it was hard to steer and impossible to mow evenly. I took
the axle off and had a tube welded in it and collars welded to the frame
and was able to get 8 years of satifactory service from it until the
motor gave up.
I have pictures of the clamp collars made and installed in my kit by
the previous builder if anyone is interested.
Vaughn Teegarden
N914VA - no progress
AVG Free Date: 28/06/2007 17:57
28/06/2007 17:57
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