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Europa-List: Epoxy etc.

Subject: Europa-List: Epoxy etc.
From: Graham Singleton <graham@gflight.f9.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 23:40:55

A few more words of wisdom and experience from Gary Hunter that I thought
worth passing on. There's no substitute for experience, even better if it's
someone elses?!?
Graham

 >  Is Nat's statement that if ... the glass wets out and goes transparent
 > > (I'll be using MGS epoxy) it's OK, and that if it stays white it isn't
 >wetting out and is no good ... a reliable test?  It makes sense to me, but
 >you're
 >the expert. Please help me out here .... Jim S.
 >
 >As usual, Nat is pretty much correct. (Nat Puffer, CoZ designer)
 >
 >Glass fibers have a "SIZING" applied to them when they are made.   Most
 >resins do not inherently wet out or adhere to the glass fibers very well by
 >themselves.  Primarily because of a disparity in their surface tensions.
 >The sizing is applied to the fibers as a very very dilute dispersion or
 >solution in water.  The sizing solution does several things.  The water
 >(introduced as a fog or spray) is used to cool the fiber from its molten
 >state.  It is also the carrier solvent for the sizing.    The solution is
 >also a lubricant for the downstream processing of the fiber up until it is
 >put on a spool and dried in an oven.    Most importantly, the sizing
 >reduces the disparity in surface tensions between the glass fiber and the
 >resin.   The sizing formulation is tailored for the specific kind of
 >"RESIN" that will be used to wet out the glass fibers.  A polyester (boat
 >resin) requires a different kind of sizing than an EPOXY resin.    There
 >are some sizings designed to be "dual" compatible.    The only way know
 >what you have is make sure you buy the fiberglass specifically called out
 >by the designer of the aircraft.
 >
 >Most of fiberglass you buy at the auto parts store, or marine supply house
 >is intended for polyester resins.   However, with West Systems Epoxy being
 >sold through many auto and marine supply stores for auto body and boat
 >repair, most of the fiberglass is probably dual compatible.   You can
 >probably use that fiberglass to make or repair your wheel pants or fairings
 >and such.  But, under no circumstances should you consider that glass
 >source for structural components of your aircraft.
 >
 >One way you can tell if the fabric sizing is compatible with he resin you
 >are using is a visual indication of "wet out".  Just like Nat said.  If it
 >doesn't wet out the glass fabric, it doesn't turn transparent or
 >translucent .   It stays whitish.
 >
 >Since these sizings are introduced to the glass fibers as a water solution,
 >they generally contain an extremely minute amount of surfactants to keep
 >them dispersed in water while they are being applied to the fibers.  These
 >surfactants remain on the fiber after the water is dried.  As such, if
 >water is re-introduced to the glass fabric, the sizing can be washed off or
 >moved about.  You have probably noticed that if you had accidently dropped
 >a bead of sweat onto you glass fabric, it makes a permanent mark in your
 >laminate, even if you allowed it to dry before you did the lay up.  This is
 >because the sizing was washed off the fiber in that particular area.
 >Similar results can occur if the entire roll of fiberglass were to become
 >wetted.
 >
 >DO NOT USE glass that has become wet.
 >
 >Exposure to high humidity generally doesn't hurt the fiberglass like direct
 >contact with water.  However, it can run the risk of mildew forming on the
 >fabric.  Generally, this will only occur on the first layers of the roll.
 >Further down in the roll, the glass fabric is probably OK.
 >
 >SO, if you think the glass is suspect, throw away the first few layers, and
 >check the fabric below before using it.
 >
 >Properly stored, the fiberglass we use should have an infinite shelf life.
 >I ALWAY store my fiberglass wrapped up in polyethylene plastic to protect
 >it from contamination of all sorts.  A 3 or 5 mil polyethylene painters
 >tarp, rolled around the roll several times.   Make sure the polyethylene
 >plastic is about 1 foot wider than the roll.   Tuck the ends of the
 >polyethylene plastic into the ends of cardboard roll, and wedge it into
 >place with a mixing cup.   This is very handy, and eliminates hassles with
 >masking tape and stuff.


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