Svein,
I am working through your instructions for the fitment of the Andair Fuel
Selector. Firstly, I haven't even sat in my Classic Mono fuselage! I have only
just finished the wings and am about to start on the fuselage. I have a lot of
decisions to make in quick time, namely engine type for fuel setup, whether to
remain mono or go tri, etc etc. I think I will probably stay mono with a mod to
fit quick removeable trundle wheels for ease of moving it around. I am going to
mod the wingtips, which i haven't finished yet, with a steel tube insert for a
wing dolly and also for a method of hanging the wings on the trailer. Anyway,
lots of things to think about. If I stay tri, and want to put my fuel selector
where you did, well it will be a bit of a challenge. I have the original
cockpit module, with the first stage LA mod for seat width. I believe the XS
cockpit module is a lot narrower So the consequence of this is that I may widen
my seat pans into the tunnel, and lower the shelf portion if I can, but the
wheel and the flap tube will limit what I do. So, I have plans but don't really
know if it is possible yet, as I don't really have a good mental picture of
what goes where. I ideally want the selector where I can see it, but I could
also put it under my right thigh support if it could fit there. Do you think it
could go there??I know of another who put it beside his right hip, which might
be OK too, but I want easy access and I don't know if this would create a good
access after all.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
><sidsel.svein@oslo.online.no>
>
>Tony,
>
>
>> I was wondering if there is any opinion about the Andair Fuel Selector
>> Extensions?
>
>I have just installed this on my TRI-GEAR, where the aft part of the center
>consol is free inside. If yours also is a tri-gear, my recommendation is
>the following (obviously does not apply to mono-wheels):
>
>- Fit the selector handle in a recessed cup made of 3 plys of bid (I used
>the lower part of a white wine bottle as the mold), installed 100 mm (4")
>aft of the knuckle for the mono's hand brakes (measured to the center of the
>box) where the width is sufficient for this cup. In this position, it is
>easy to operate the handle (a safety knob must be lifted at the same time as
>you turn the handle to get it to "Off", easy to do by one hand), it is easy
>to see the position of the handle and it is out of the way since it is
>recessed.
>- Cut the opening for the cup a little larger than the OD of the cup,
>because according to the factory's recommendation you should reinforce this
>cut-out with 2 plys of bid going from the underside through the opening (all
>around its circumference) and onto the top, abt. 1 inch in under/over. Also
>put some extra bid plys under the top along the sides and onto the top and
>around the cup (after you have glued it in place with Araldite/Redux).
>- I installed the valve on the underside of a cross-bar between the two
>center tunnel sides, made of 10 mm foam with two plys of bid all around.
>This makes the cross-bar very stiff yet light. I bolted the valve on the
>underside for easy removal. In any event, make sure the cross-bar will not
>interfere with the rudder cables running along the sides of the tunnel.
>- When installing the valve, it must be absolutely square to the extension
>tube, unless you opt for the more expensive universal joint extension.
>Being careful and using Araldite with flox to bed the valve on the
>cross-bar, you should be OK, though. I riveted the top of the extension
>tube to the selector handle first, and then inserted (but not yet riveted)
>the lower end into the valve for this alignment process and let the valve
>just sink into the Araldite/flox bed under its own weight. Grease the
>valve's mounting pads first! When cured, make certain 3 times that you have
>the selector handle and the valve correctly orientated (I set the handle to
>"Off" and checked that I could not blow through any of the valve holes).
>Then use Rapid Aaraldite to glue the lower tube end to the valve spindle
>insert. When cured, put in the rivets.
>- When all is done and correct operation of the valve is verified, now is
>the time to empty the bottle used as the mold for the cup!
>
>- Note on the rivets: The instructions that came from Andair specified a
>too large drill size for the rivets, you'll see that immediately when you
>open the package. By the way, I riveted the top of the tube to the handle
>without dismantling the handle - much easier that way (again a deviation
>from the instructions).
>- When ordering, specify hose fittings for 8 mm ID hose. These are not
>stock items at Andair's (10 and 6 mm are), but they made 8 mm's for me at no
>extra charge. These fittings are unique to the valve, you cannot use
>ordinary screwed-in fittings.
>
>The valve looks like a very good quality product.
>
>If you - or anyone else - are interested in some photographs of this
>installation, let me know off-list.
>
>Regards,
>Svein
>A225 - now in Norway
>
>
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