Daydreaming some more.....
Modifying my original suggestion, more effective than a "ramp bracket" would
be a pivoting, slightly over-center lever with a small bucket-like end to
capture the end of the gas strut and unload the door as it's closed. This
would get rid of any friction of sliding up the 'ramp bracket' when closing
the door, and would actually pull the top corner of the door inwards
slightly when fully closed (due to being over-center). The lever would need
to be lightly spring loaded to position it outwards to receive the end of
the gas strut when the door is open.
I could sketch it out if need be to explain a little more clearly.
Cheers,
Pete A239
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Peter Zutrauen
> Subject: RE: Door strut question
>
>
> As I've not yet received my kit yet, I suspect that any
> suggestion I make may not be applicable.... so I apologize in
> advance if I'm wasting bandwidth. (day-dreaming is fun tho :-)
>
> With the above in mind..... If I understand the problem
> correctly, the door flexes and creeps over time in the closed
> position because of the strut loading. Would it not be
> possible to modify the ball-joint (assumption) on the door
> attach to have some free play, and then mount a metal "ramp
> bracket" on the fuse rebate just above the ball-joint when
> the door is in the closed position? The theory would be that
> when the door is closed the last few inches the
> "ramp-bracket" would contact the strut-end ball-joint,
> compress the strut a couple of mm's and unload the door. The
> tolerances would have to be tight however, as determined by
> the amount of added free-play in the modified ball-joint (you
> wouldn't want to jam the door frame in the opposite
> direction). The ramp angle would obviously have to be such as
> to not present undue resistance to the closing of the door
> (pushing outward on the door frame and negating any benefit),
> yet be effective over the small contact travel distance
> (perpendicular to the surface of the fuse) of the ball-joint.
> Apologies if my verbal picture is poorly worded.
>
> If successful, all the strut compression loads would be
> carried entirely by the fuse rebate (which I assumer from its
> shape and "roll-over" function that it would be stronger than
> the door).
>
> Feasible?
>
> Sort'a like the automotive windshield wiper blade arm parking
> ramp on some cars which lift the blade off the windshield
> when the wipers are parked to avoid the rubber being set in a
> tilted position (resulting in that irritating blade 'chatter').
>
> Just thought I'd float the idea.....
>
> Cheers & Happy Holidays!
> Pete A239
>
> Wait! I think I hear hooves on the roof! I hope my daughter
> stays asleep! :-)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Cc: europa@avnet.co.uk
> Subject: Re: Door strut question
>
>
> >
> > > When the a/c is left setting around (which they will do)
> the constant
> > pressure from the cyl. pushes the rear corner up away from
> the fuselage>
>
> The other thing we do with ZK-UBD is leave the doors open
> when it is in the
> hanger. This may also be helping keep the doors in shape.
> This was done
> initially to stop the fuel smell and then we just got in the
> habit of leaving
> them open.
>
> Tony
>
>
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