Paul, I agree the manual should say that this is important, and it would be
smart to include jig/template instructions. I did both sides before this
knowledge came from you ( thanks very much by the way). I ran out to the
shop to check after getting your message and find that I can measure no
difference in hinge pin to bolt center between port and stbd. I think I got
lucky.
Must be great to have the wings closed, sorry to hear about the extra bit
in there. I heard about a bucking bar in a Cessna . So I guess it could be
worse?
I am ready to begin the wings. I was about to start cutting W18 slots but my
permagrit wheel on dremel can't get flush up to the ribs. I do not yet have
a flex shaft for the dremel. Maybe just drill a hole to start a hacksaw
blade?
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: aileron root closeout
Kevin
I would suggest to you that the bolt to hinge distance is absolutely
critical and needs to be the same P&S to a fraction of a mm. It was annoying
that the build manual does not emphasise this enough. The reason being that
the distance between the bolt and the hinge wire determines the radius of
the arc of aileron rotaion - if the are not the same the aileorns will move
different amounts P&S. I built a very simple jig from a piece of
polycarbonate sheet with a length of alumin.tubing (approx 1" long) reduxed
through it to locate snugly over the bolt. There is then a hole into which
the hinge wire can be pushed, and a peg to locate it on the aileron lower
surface. Since the tube, hole and peg go all the way through the sheet it
can be simply turned over to check locations on both ailerons. If non of
that makes sense and you want a picture let me know. But hey I'm the bloke
with the empty tub of redux stuck in my wing so perhaps you should ignore
all of this.
Regards
Paul Stewart #432
----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin Klinefelter <kevann@gte.net>
Subject: aileron root closeout
> Thanks to all who replied, port aileron root closeout went well this
> morning. I decided to not follow the manual exactly. After getting the
> hardware to trial fit well on the foam, measuring the 35mm and 45mm
> dimensions with a couple calipers, I microed, floxed the corner and laid
in
> the first bid layer. I rapid floxed the bolt to the A2 just to keep it
from
> spinning. Then floxed that A2 in place checking position with the
calipers.
> Then 2 layers of bid over the bolt (did it dry first so there was a little
> hole in each piece of bid for the bolt). Then Ann peeled the masking tape
> off the bolt with clean gloves and put washer/spacer/washer/nut on. She
has
> slim fingers. Peelplyed and checked position with the calipers, looks
good.
> Now when I get to hinge placement I guess I measure with a caliper to get
> the hinge wire to bolt dimensions the same.
>
Thanks
> again, Kevin Klinefelter
>
> A211 Bishop CA
>
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