Steve,
Don't worry too much about the aluminium (structurally) unless you operate
near the sea or you're fusssy about internal appearances.
I've painted my internal steel bits with red lead primer then maroon
cellulose top
coat. It's a combination which seems to work on other external metalwork
I've built.
Where there are items which might collect water (anti-balance/trim tab
operating T piece ends, flap operating cross tube, perhaps engine mounts,
I've
either bunged them up, or sprayed Waxoil inside. You can get neat and
light plastic tube bungs for all sizes.
Steel parts which show, such as the brake lever, I've had plated (don't
forget to ask for de-brittle if there's stress in it). Alu. parts which
show I've had polished and anodised. The undercarriage arm I've had hard
anodised 'cos it's likely to see abrasion.
I bought stainless screws for external applications such as inspection
covers.
Best trick is to examine the used Europas at Cranfield to see which bits
are rotting or scruffy, and do your finishing to suit.
Good luck - don't get carried away.
Dave
----------
> From: Steve Genotte <gopack@sprintmail.com>
> Subject: Corrosion Proofing
> Date: 30 December 1998 20:50
>
> Gentle Builders,
>
> As I gaze longingly/fretfully at my garage full of Europa parts (was Dr.
> Frankenstein nothing more than a misguided homebuilder?) I find myself
> looking at the various plates, hinges, rods, etc. and wonder aloud "How
> much of this stuff am I supposed to <insert preferred corrosion proofing
> process here>?"
>
> Looking forward to your hints,
>
> Steve G.
> A126
>
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