Thought it was about time to contribute to the builders net again as I have
taken
a lot
---From it. Just finishing the wings which has been very enjoyable. Onto the
fuselage
now
with Gavin Lee building his down the road, so we double check each others
progress.
Anyway, for what it is worth:
Ailerons.
1. The washout on the cores were not the required 0.6 degrees.(1.2 degrees
for the Port and 1.7 for the Starboard) So to obtain the 0.6 I used the new
procedure from Europa via Tony K.This also came out in a Newsletter from
Europa but is not updated in the manual yet.
The following setup should be carried out on a flat and level bench, however
slight anomalies will be automatically catered for.
You will need to make a wedge shaped block about 6" long for your spirit
level to stand on so that it reads level at the aileron root.
A. Set the aileron core on the bench whilst correctly positioned in its
lower cradle.
B. With the spirit level on its wedge shaped block positioned at the aileron
root check that the level shows zero.
C. Move the wedge and level to the aileron tip (without turning it around)
and shim the tip leading edge until the level shows zero again. Make sure the
shim
is
only pushed under the cradle by 10-15 mm. It would be helpful to have one of the
pieces
of the shim 2mm thick.
This effectively removes all built in washout and is our start point.
D. Now remove 2mm of the shim leaving the remaining shim in place.
E. Sighting along the leading edge, ad shims under the cradle along the
span as required until it is straight.
F. The aileron core should now be set up with 0.6 degrees of washout
and is ready for the first layup.
2.Using Aircraft Spruce peel ply I peel plied right around the leading
edges.
3.Watch out for cores that are bowed length wise. Concentrating on getting
the washout correct, I failed to notice that one of the cores plus jig was
slightly bowed. Realising this after the first layup, I managed to
straighten it before the bottom skin layup. This was done by placing a
nail through the jig into the table half way along the leading edge of the
core before the bottom layup and then rapid epoxy the jig to the table
straightening, with a little force and clamps, the bow out.
4.I rolled the UNI onto cardboard rolls and before the layups did trial
runs to make sure the 30 degrees to the leading edge would be obtained.
I marked with felt pen the starting point on the roll to meet the core
and a line to follow the trailing edge as you unrolled.I also marked the
30 degree line on the cloth to confirm the direction is within the +/-
10 degrees quoted in composite books for strength.
5.Removing foam under the skin to make hinges I removed slightly more than
indicated to make room for the hinges. (A lesson learnt from the anti servo
tab hinges.)
6. I peel plied the entire hinge flange/leading edge layup and inserted
dry micro for the micro fillet with a syringe.(Opening cut to suit)
7. Laid 3 plies in the hinge positions instead of 2 as required by Europa.
8. Root closeout and A2 Plate. Slightly different technique than the manual.
I rapid epoxied the bolt to the A2 plate. Made a template for the position
of the bolt in the closeout. Positioned the bolt/A2 with the template and
removed the foam as required. Drilled 2 holes in the A2 to fit cocktail sticks
for positioning. Repositioned the bolt/A2 plated with the template and
placed cocktail sticks 1/2 in to make initial holes. Removed the Bolt/A2 and
did the layup (with aileron vertical) in the order required in the closeout
and not on the bench. Fixing the bolt/A2 plate into position by the
cocktail sticks before the the top 2 plies.
9. Hinge attachment. I elected to space the ailerons the same distance as
the hinge pin diameter. This allows one to confirm the distance from the
bolt(A2) to the hinge pin is the same for both ailerons. Also allows easy
retraction of the pin!!
10. Mass Balances wing cut outs. In the wing rebates I used some curved jig
foam to lessen the angle between the top surface and the rebate floor.This
was out of the way of the path of the mass balance.Cut the rebates with a Dremel
using Diamond blades. (fast and efficient!!!)
11. I peel plied both the sides and front/back of the balances.
12. Aileron Bellcrank Access hole.I cut and shaped a piece of 10mm plywood
for the surrounds of the hole.Within the plywood I inserted with rapid epoxy
nuts to take the screws to hold the Lexon access panel. Cut out the shape
on the wimg down to the inner skin for the rebate. After filling the wing
I will insert the plywood into the hole using flox and rapid epoxy to the
distance required.
Cheers,
Tim Ward
Builder # 292
--
Timothy. P. Ward
12 Waiwetu Street,
Fendalton,
CHRISTCHURCH 5.
NEW ZEALAND
PH 6433515166
Fax 6433515166
Email: ward.t@xtra.co.nz
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