Tail Trim Tab Link Rod Lateral Mod
Yes I used a couple of disks of 3/16 inch (5 mm) ply (each side had a coating of
epoxy for protection). The diameter (about 1.5 inches) is determined by the
distance between the aft most position of the link rod and the rudder close-out
plywood on the port side. They stop any tendancy for the link rod to pull out
with the tailplanes as well as stabilising the rod within the fuselage when the
tailplanes are not attached. I don't know whether you would need PFA approval in
the UK (or Oz) for these plates as it is such a simple solution.
Rudder Close-out (fuselage)
Boy, this has to be the stickiest layup - but probably one of the last you have
to do. If like me your fin was vertical and leaning back slightly getting a 4 ft
long strip of bid in there is a bit like trying to paper the ceiling - except
bid stretches. Once you get the first layup in you then have to put in 2 long
strips of uni, lengthways, into both closeout corners. Uni cut lengthways (again
4 ft long or so) wants to pull apart and you end up with long strands of glass
wanting to come off even once you get the strips in.
Once the hinge stiffeners are in you have to get another closing layer of bid in
there.
With hindsight I certainly would have used plastic sheeting to hold everything
together while you get the glass in there although I think any way is difficult
and messy because you are working in such a confined - relatively deep channel.
Rudder Close-out (rudder)
If you are talking about the rudder itself then I wouldn't try to get the odd
little shaped piece at the top of the rudder 'right first time' as I defy anyone
to even guess at the really weird shape required. Like me you may also want to
adjust the length of the rudder slightly when you finally attach it to the
fuselage (the final length of the rudder closeout may vary due to a build up of
tolerances caused by the lower fuselage/upper fuselage/fin joints).
Hope this helps anyone at these stages.
Happy Easter!
Regards
Martin Tuck
#152
Wichita, Kansas
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