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Re: Europa-List: Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement with springs

Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement with springs
From: Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 17:25:17
Rob,
There isn't much room but it is sufficient with the hooks forward in the 
2011 (which I still haven't seen final) version which is how I do the 
mod.  If you don't have the engine, make friends with three 200 lb. 
agile guys to spring things into action.
I am surprised that you don't leave the gear leg attached final as it is 
quite easy to snap the spring into place even working alone.  As Bob 
Borger indicated in his email it takes a bit of rounding of the spring 
end, and a bit of a pull to get them in.  One thing that was not 
forwarded though is I use a few 5/16 inch bolts to help lengthen the 
spring.  Hopefully Bob's photo album shows that we took the time to prep 
and make sure the spring was dead straight.  

I have an unfair advantage that I have done many of these and frankly 
miss what I consider is obvious, which is not.

Apologies for leaving that info out.

Bud Yerly


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Rob Housman<mailto:rob@hyperion-ef.com> 
  To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com> 
  Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 10:55 AM
  Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement 
with springs


   
  Thanks for the detailed reply.

   

  In the May 2006 version of the Mod it  looks like the openings face 
aft but in the 2011 version the opening is forward.  I elected to use 
the latest version for guidance.  The Landing Gear Frame in my kit has 
several additional members so there is not much room for the upper hooks 
to move in either direction - they are trapped between two narrowly 
spaced tubes.

   

  In my case your other suggestions about getting the springs in place 
don't apply since I am doing Mod 71 right after Mod 72, so the engine is 
on the floor and not in the way.  I also eliminated most of the hassle 
getting the springs in place by removing the tie wires and the four 
bolts on the pillow blocks that are the pivot points for the nose gear 
arm.  With the leg free to move a bit (still restrained by the safety 
cable) I could get the lower hooks in place with minimum fuss.

   

  Of course, with the engine on the floor that leaves me to contemplate 
how to load the springs with sufficient force to remove the spacers.

   

   

  Best regards,

   

  Rob Housman

  Irvine, California

  Europa XS

  Rotax 914

  S/N A070

  Airframe complete

  Avionics soon

   

  From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com 
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bud Yerly
  Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2011 3:52 PM
  To: europa-list@matronics.com
  Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement 
with springs

   

        Photo E-mail 
        View slideshow 
<https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=2161856909618aa7&page=play&;
resid=2161856909618AA7!136&type=5&authkey=KzlAF!wKhQk%24>| 
Download images 
<https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=2161856909618aa7&page=downl
oadphotos&resid=2161856909618AA7!136&type=5&authkey=KzlAF!wKhQk%24>

       

  Rob,

  Attached is a drawing of how I round off my springs and a photo of how 
we keep the spring from grinding into the steel frame by using small 
bits of stainless.

  Note that I install the springs with the openning forward.  Please 
note the left and right hand wind requires you to place the springs so 
that they do not rub against the center tube.

   

  The springs can be installed facing aft but the last snap in is a bit 
difficult unless the entire wheel well is open or you are very strong.

   

  Forgive me that I do not have my tech article on how to install the 
springs any longer as folks were just not having problems and it went to 
archive somewhere.  Bob Borger and Gary Leinberger may have photo's of 
us doing theirs if you ask..  

   

  Please round over the spring as per the drawing to make snapping the 
spring over the top tube less painful.  You may do the lower part as 
well.

   

  One indispensible tool is a piece of stainless cable with handles on 
both ends to snap the spring up and over the top.  I have one of the 
guys standing on the wheel well and pull it up to snap in the spring 
over the upper tube.  Then he bounces on the front until the 5/16 and 
1/4 inch bolts fall out.

  The other nice to have tool is a set of threaded rods with a couple of 
curved ends to help hold the gear up while I install, but rope or a 
strap works also...I just like steel to protect me from a rope brake or 
strap slip.  It takes me with two helpers (for added weight), about 45 
minutes to install the springs.

   

   

        
<https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=2161856909618aa7&page=play&;
resid=2161856909618AA7!137&parid=2161856909618AA7!136&type=1&authke
y=KzlAF!wKhQk%24>
       
       

   

        
<https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=2161856909618aa7&page=play&;
resid=2161856909618AA7!138&parid=2161856909618AA7!136&type=1&authke
y=KzlAF!wKhQk%24>
       
        Small pieces of stainless between the spring and frame glued in 
or just set in sealant will keep the spring from scratching up your 
frame and rusting later on.  Even with an engine on you can see that 
putting a cable through the hook on the spring and pulling from above is 
an easy safe method to snap the spring in.  Technique:  I normally put 
the engine on to add weight when I am doing this operation alone.  I put 
a strap around the gearbox and nose gear leg to pull the spring a bit to 
get the bolts to fall out then repeat.
       

  Please use safety precautions so as not to injure yourself when 
stretching and installing the springs and you will find it is an easy 
install.

   

   

  Regards,

  Bud Yerly
  Europa Tech Advisor

  Custom Flight Creations, Inc.
  www.customflightcreations.com<http://www.customflightcreations.com/>
  (813) 653-4989

   

   

   

    ----- Original Message ----- 

    From: G-IANI<mailto:g-iani@ntlworld.com> 

    To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com> 

    Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2011 5:28 AM

    Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement 
with springs

     

    Rob

     

    I have attached a copy of Mod 71 issue 3 for information.

     

    The radius of the upper hook should be 38mm to fit the frame tube ( 
the lower is 32mm).

     

    I am not aware of any batch of springs which have been out of 
tolerance.  If yours are please let Europa know.

     

     

    Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours
    Europa Club Mods Specialist
    e-mail g-iani@ntlworld.com<mailto:g-iani@ntlworld.com> 

     

     

     

    From: 
owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com<mailto:owner-europa-list-server@ma
tronics.com> 
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]<mailto:[mailto:owner-euro
pa-list-server@matronics.com]> On Behalf Of Rob Housman
    Sent: 27 August 2011 21:24
    To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
    Subject: Europa-List: Mod 71 - Nose gear leg bungee, replacement 
with springs

     

    I've encountered another one of those "minor" problems I have come 
to accept as normal with the factory's step child, the Tri-Gear.  

     

    The diameter of the Landing Gear Frame is 1.55 inch (39.4 mm) and 
the opening in the spring that must hook onto it is 1.35 inch (34.3 mm). 
 This seems to allow for either of two solutions, neither one 
particularly elegant.  1) use brute force to deform the hook in the 
spring, 2) cut off some of the end of the hook.

     

    Comments and suggestions from those who have perhaps already dealt 
with this, or anyone else for that matter, would be greatly appreciated.

     

     

    Best regards,

     

    Rob Housman

    Irvine, California

    Europa XS

    Rotax 914

    S/N A070

    Airframe complete

    Avionics soon

     

     

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