On 01/18/2010 09:25 PM, Rowland Carson wrote:
> One end of the warning lamp is connected to the C terminal of the
> regulator (also commoned with R & +B) so that better be at 12V when the
> donkey is running. The other side of the lamp goes to the L terminal
> which presumably is normally floating, open circuit (or even +12V?) but
> drops to 0V when things go pear-shaped.
Well, you don't have to connect the lamp to the C terminal, any 12V
connection would be fine. I have mine connected behind the master
switch, and behind the panel fuse. The only wire going to the alternator
controller is the L wire, which doesn't need a fuse at all.
About the hobbs: Connect the + of the hobbs to the L wire (either end
would be fine, but the end near the bulb would be practical). Connect
the - of the hobbs to ground.
This will cause the hobbs to run as soon as the master switch is on,
unless the bulb lights up. So, it will effectively count the engine hours.
That's really all there is to it. No need for oil pressure switches or
other gadgets.
> The diagram calls out a 30A slo-blo fuse to protect the 12AWG wire
> leaving the C, R, +B terminals. However, there is NO protection for the
> 20AWG wire leaving the same spot and going through the firewall to the
> alternator warning lamp.
No, because you are supposed to connect it behind the fuse. The 12AWG
wire is connected to the C terminal, so instead of connecting the lamp
to the C terminal directly, you could as well use the other end of the
12AWG wire. 12 Volts is 12 Volts after all. ;-) In fact, any 12 V line
would serve the same purpose.
You should indeed not connect any unfused wire to the C,R or B terminals!
Hope this is clear now.
Frans
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