Guys,
I have run the throttle cables for over 10 years without trouble. I don=92
t normally cut them and run them long and loopy to the carbs. This is hard
to do in a mono going through the firewall. Much easier in the Trigear as
there is more room.
Of course there are techniques as Eric said: To shorten a cable you must h
ave a working knowledge of how to cap and swag cables, I lead the cable bef
ore cutting them and also at the tightening point on the carb throttle leve
r if the cable has been damaged by the customer.
Find a good bike shop and they can show you how to end cap the cables right
. Leading the cable tips is not normally done here in the US but the Germa
ns in Spangdahlem showed me how. I have even used 60/40 solder but lead is
better in my opinion. Lead penetrates the cable and keeps the strands fro
m unravelling. It is not easy to do.
Bike shops have 4 and 5 mm swag ends normally, such as the Zimo 50pcs Jagwi
re Bike 5mm Brake Cable Housing Ferrule End Caps. The Europa cables are no
t quite the same size, so I use a vice to make a press using a tapered punc
h to flare or widen the mouth then press in the butt end of numbered drill
bits used as a die to open up the 5mm swag ends to properly open up the end
cap to slide on the cables. Typically 5.3 to 5.5mm will slip fit nicely o
n the 914 TCU cable and throttle cables. For the threaded throttle ends, b
uy new ones from Rotax, Green Sky Adventures or Spruce and avoid the rush.
These I think are normally 6 mm. I have never scrimped on tools, so I bou
ght good crimpers and they don=92t crush the end of the threaded end, or sa
fety wire them on works too...
Most problems in my experience with customer built throttle boxes is the th
rottle box cable sheaths are poorly aligned where they attach to the fiberg
lass box. This leads to binding and kinking in the throttle box if the cab
le has a slight kink in it. It makes a big difference, even if the angle i
s very slightly off or the cable sheaths are too low and if you kinked the
cable a bit. Don=92t overly tie the cable ends up with zip ties, it just m
akes for a bind many times.
The solid cable replacement takes care of that, I just never needed them as
I rebuild the throttle and bench check the cables for proper operation bef
ore install. The choke cable is another problem for another day.
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Window
s 10
________________________________
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@matr
onics.com> on behalf of Erich Trombley <erichdtrombley@juno.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2017 9:08:57 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Throttle cables
Hi Richard,
Attached is a photo of the cable attachment at the carb. As I did not purc
hase the Europa firewall forward kit, I made up my own bits. I used bicycl
e brake parts for the cable sheath cut to length. As the O.D was slightly
smaller, I used heat shrink tubing on the end to make up the difference, an
d then safety wired it in place. At the throttle box I used a bicycle cable
adjuster and just attached it with a nut to the box. Let me know if you h
ave any other questions.
Erich Trombley
N28ET
Classic Mono 914
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