Tony,
Yes, you will have overlap, and as you say, it is not a bad thing.
As for 3D thingys... Craftsmanship, is what we learn and show off on
our hand built steeds. No fiberglass airplane comes out of the mold and
fits perfectly. Your gear angles will not be the same as mine or anyone
elses. Trim and fit. The cockpit module changes the fuselage side
shape, as does the bulkheads in the rear. The wings shape will be
determined by how you put on your skins and if you properly prepped the
skins to lay dead flat. I have made paper templates for the install of
the bid tapes but not once have they worked flawlessly as we all don't
make, hold, or position the tapes the same. I know of no manufacture
that makes an aircraft that you shake the box and an airplane falls out.
Some of the factory built rag wing aircraft are close as the envelopes
can be shrunk to fit. Even the predrilled "just add rivets" aircraft
don't fit right all the time, and no cad drawing of one autopilot
install works from plane to plane.
If you have to repair a factory built plane such as an SLSA, you will
find the new parts don't fit very often. That is why there are sheet
metal guys and fiberglass guys to fix this sort of miss match. Not even
at Boeings assembly plants do things fit exactly. When major components
are assembled, they have skilled, highly paid riggers to fix the
problems with the floor engineers looking on.
Enjoy building and learning a craft.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
----- Original Message -----
From: Tony Renshaw<mailto:tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2014 7:43 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay
Hi Bud,
Quick question, and no doubt an easy one, and I think I know the
answer=85.what is dart the corners?? If its cut and overlap, well
you=92d end up with double the thickness of plies in the corners to the
number of layups, which probably isn=92t a bad thing at all. Its a real
shame there isn=92t some sort of 3 D wand thingo that you can beam
around inside the leg wells, and it digitises the interior, and then
place your legs accordingly, and digitise them too, and then
electronically make up the ply so that it fits perfectly in every
corner. Maybe I was born before my time ;-)
Regards
Tony Renshaw
On 26 May 2014, at 9:26 am, Bud Yerly
<budyerly@msn.com<mailto:budyerly@msn.com>> wrote:
Kevin,
I normally do the first layup with a single dry ply and dart the
corners as in any proper layup technique. I prefer not to see my
clients make tapes as it tends to make for more voids and sticky messes
when it goes a bit wrong. The uni is applied to the inside of the bay
after the bid. During the layup of the dry glass procedure, the sticky
initial layer and flox makes placement of the white glass in the dark
hole and cutting and darting easier for me. Good sharp shears are
essential. In the dry glass layup, you will use more epoxy as gravity
works 24/7 so simply peel ply and mop up the excess when done and let it
cure. Use just a bit of denatured alcohol if the puddle is getting
sticky. Remember to leave a tab to pull the peel ply by.
Go slow, take your time on getting your ply pieces fit well. My
clients have me do the cuts as I am faster, but don't trust the manual
cutouts, make a template from cardboard and fit it in place. Be sure to
leave working room around the mod 52 tube and socket. You will find
that the dry glass layups can go fairly fast, but with the top on it is
a real back breaker. Get yourself some good cool running LED lights for
good visibility (incandescent bulbs make it a very hot job in Florida
and the glue kicks very fast) . A small 4 by 4 inch mirror is essential
to check for voids and dry bid. In places it is necessary to cut the
handle of the brush down and round it off so it doesn't snag anything to
get in those corners well.
It is nice to have one person glassing one side, and I on the other,
with a helper mixing 100gram cups of epoxy as we go. I've done the
project in 4 days but prefer 7.
My back can't take it so I do the inner and outer initial
reinforcements on day 1.
Day 2 I do the final line up of the tubes and gear and check
everything absolutely right and the aircraft jigged dead solid. Redux
in the tubes.
Day 3 I install the first rib and allow to firm up then lay glass
over it and allow to cure. (With the top on it may be best to set the
rib, peel ply and allow to cure. Glass the next day.
Day 4 is Rib 2 unless I work a long Day 3 and install rib two over
tacky glass and bond in both in one day. You gotta be quick and good
for that and have a kit with the top off.
Day 5 are Rib 3 and 4
Day 6 grind the tops and clean up, then apply uni. You can pop the
gear and finish up or...
Day 7 Pop out the gear, finish the outside layups, and reinstall the
gear, pull the fuselage from the jig and put on the brakes and wheels...
Working alone, make it a half a day for 14 days and save your back
and make it a more enjoyable easily paced project...
Bob Borger posted how I do my jig setup in my shop, and if memory
serves, it took a full two weeks to pull the gear, clean up and put in
the tri-gear, we mounted hand brake cylinders in the tunnel per my
standard and closed up the belly with new firewall with 4 of us working.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
CFC, Inc.
> Subject: Europa-List: Landing Gear Layups in Baggage Bay
> From: kelv@kdweston.biz<mailto:kelv@kdweston.biz>
> Date: Sun, 25 May 2014 02:34:23 -0700
> To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
>
<kelv@kdweston.biz<mailto:kelv@kdweston.biz>>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I know this has been discussed before but I am just preparing the
baggage bay for the landing gear reinforcement layups and have a few
questions for those that have gone before me and successfully completed
this mega task.
>
> The manual states =93 layup 2 plies of bid over the entire
area of the baggage bay up to the level of the top of the centre tunnel.
>
> a) Is this best done in one piece of bid? The manual does not
state any preference. What have others done?
>
> b) If done in one piece of bid, is it okay to cut the corner folds
and overlap? This would certainly make for a simpler and neater
installation and would also increase the number of layers in the
corners. Surely a good thing?
>
> I intend to layup the bid on plastic, my normal method for easier
handling, before attempting to introduce to the baggage bay.
>
> Next, the manual states - add 2 plies of uni, to the same height,
onto the baggage bay rear bulkhead from the sidewall to the central
tunnel, with the fibres running spanwise.
>
> c) I am assuming this is just on the inner aft side of the baggage
bay box?
> Also, there is no mention of any overlap onto the floor, sides or
centre tunnel, so just into the corners then?
>
> Interested to hear what others have done for this part of the
build and what is considered best practice for this layup.
>
> The fuselage top is still off so slightly easier but the back
support belt and pain relief cream are standing by!
>
> Many thanks.
>
> --------
> Regards
>
> Kelv Weston
> Kit 497
> kelv@kdweston.biz<mailto:kelv@kdweston.biz>
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423762#423762<http://forums
.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=423762#423762>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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