Hi! Peter.
I thinned mine down some for the same reason. However if I recall
correctly the nut is a "nylock" type with a nylon self locking insert,
and to grind it down will likely cook the nylon so I carefully used a
hacksaw. But to ensure a clean cut at the thread I first established at
what length (plus one thread clear to stick through the nut when
tightened) the bolt needed to be then put it into a vice and hack sawed
to length cleaning it with a file. Then trial fitted the nut(Opposite
end to the nylon) to clear out the start thread of the bolt. Then remove
the nut and hacksaw the nut to the required length making sure the face
is flat and square to the axis.
If it were a nut and bolt without the nylon I'd cut both nut and bolt
together so both threads are cleaned by subsequent removal of the nut.
All IMHO of course!
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa 337 MKI/Jabiru 3300.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter Rees
Subject: Europa-List: A fat spat
<peter.rees05@ntlworld.com>
I'm in the process of fitting the nose spat but have noticed that the
right
hand side (viewed from in front) bulges due to the size of the axle nut.
The
nut (along with the washer and spat mounting bracket) cause this side to
stick out about 5mm more than the other side such that the spat looks
terrible.
Would it be OK to grind the axle nut (and axle bolt of course) from its
current size of about 13mm to say 9? As far as I can see, the nut is
there
to keep the axle bolt in place and the assembly under the correct
tension to
stop the wheel from wobbling - it shouldn't need to be as big as it is.
Peter
G-MFHI
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