>Graham:
> The following is all I got:
>Using 5-min epoxy, I have moved CS29 farther from the hinge, then back to
>starboard. Then put slightly deeper aft into the rudder, then back
forward. I
>shortened the rod then lengthened it. Each trial you have to remove the
>rudder, crack off the epoxy, move it re-attach it, let it dry, reattach the
>rudder etc, etc. Is there something I'm missing in the way of a short-cut or
>something, or is it a matter of much more trial and error?
>Short on sanity,
Not surprised, been there, done that. There are too many variables.
Start by centering the rudder pedals, then center the bell crank (the one
on the rear bulkhead.)
Now make a little jig, similar to the one used for the aileron hinges. Draw
it out on paper first, showing the center of the hinge, the sides of the
rudder and rear fuselage and their center lines.
Now mark a point where the center of the drive bolt needs to be to give the
correct radius. This is what determines the overall deflection of the
rudder. Too big, not enough rudder travel, too small, (more likely) and the
rudder moves too far. This dimension is not easy to measure because the
bolt is not parallel to the hinge center line. I made a small jig with the
two holes 2.5 inches apart (Europa plans page 28-4, Classic) and a straight
edge at the right angle to lie along the outside of the skin. Then with the
bolt through the CS29 and the jig, put the assembly into the recess and
carve foam out until it went in easily.
In general the CS29 needs to be as close to the outer skin as possible. It
might (ie would imho) be worth making a couple of tiny g clamps to hold the
CS 29 in place without bonding. Now adjust the length of the pushrod until
the rudder is in line.
Check rudder deflection by drawing a center line on top of the fin and the
rudder. Use that as your measuring datum. Not much use measuring the side
of the fin/rudder because they aren't straight.
Graham
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