My DAR suggested that "slip marks" be used with Nicopress fittings. This
consists of a dab of paint on the cable just as it exits the Nicopress. If
the fitting should start to slip it is then readily noted by the unpainted
band which appears next to the fitting. I use a paint pen, available at art
stores, to mark the cable. The paint is fairly thin so it penetrates the
cable and almost disappears - a second coat after the first dries then does
the trick.
The paint pen is also useful in marking nuts which have been tightened so one
doesn't repeatedly check them (old age is hell).
And, I put a dab of wet flox on the cut ends of the cables. This is sanded
later to produce a rounded end. Avoids cuts and/or torn clothing from
inadvertent contact with the razor sharp ends.
I initially had difficulty getting the Aeropoxy/Fairlite filler to cure in
the cooler weather which is now upon us. Took over a week to cure enough to
stop forming rolls when sanded. My tech counselor allowed that in our area
Aeropoxy is difficult to use in the winter. He suggested West Systems epoxy
with the fast hardner. This works out much better with the filler and will
cure in a day at quite low temperatures. I now apply filler at 65F --
temperature in the garage falls to 50F overnight but doesn't seem to inhibit
cure. Above 70F the working time is shorter than I like for filling; the
manufacturer claims it will cure at temperatures down to 40F. Bob Berube
says this epoxy is now approved by Rutan and Europa. It is made for boat
builders who apparently aren't as inclined to heat their workshops. Other
hardners are available for use in warmer conditions. They have a good
applications brochure.
Another suggestion from my tech counselor: use a piece of 6mil plastic(4" by
8") to smooth the filler around the LE and tips. Just drag it over the curved
areas. This works pretty well to smooth out the bumps which I tended to leave
in the rounded areas using an 8" drywall knife to spread filler.
John A044 Newtown, CT
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