Hi Dave,
I suspect each of us develops a different method of working as well as a
unique cleanup technique. I generally need a sink for less than 5 minutes
per layup so it would be an extravagance in my shop. Most of my cleanup is
accomplished with paper towels, so a good sized waste bin is key.
Some useful practices:
A good shop apron is invaluable. Leave it in the shop after completing a
layup.
Keep a pair of old shoes in the workshop for use while uncured epoxy is
about. Change out of these shoes when exiting the shop to avoid tracking goo
around. If the possibility of epoxy dripping on the floor exists, as during
LE wing layups, put newspapers on the floor.
When you're done with a layup, wipe the squeegee and scissors off carefully
with paper towels in preparation for later washing.
I found that using thin vinyl gloves over nitrile or latex gloves works well
for me. I sometimes manage to trim a bit off the end of the gloves along with
the cloth. Just replace the outer glove if its damaged. For cleanup, discard
the outer glove before leaving the shop to keep epoxy off the door knobs,
etc. Keep the inner glove on until washing of squeegee, scissors and inner
glove is complete, about 5 minutes as noted earlier. If the inner glove was
damaged, discard it after washup.
NEVER return to the workshop to tidy up without putting gloves on. I did this
early on and eventually developed an epoxy reaction, apparently due to
touching stray drops of epoxy on things I picked up to move or discard. Since
the epoxy is partially cured, it doesn't wash off easily with water. Rutan
says acetone drives the epoxy into and through your skin, so if you get it on
you you're stuck, so to speak.
As a beginner at this, I found the list of tools specified by Europa somewhat
lacking. Some (mostly inexpensive) hand tools I found particularly valuable:
An inexpensive ceramic sharpener for scissors. This makes even inexpensive
scissors work on fiberglass.
Scissors should be the offset type rather than straight. Much easier to trim
edges without disturbing the layup. I found that the cheap stainless offset
scissors available in fabric stores for about $4 work well if you use the
ceramic sharpener.
A sharpener for the utility knife is also very useful, although this can be
done with sandpaper in a pinch.
A razor saw is useful for cutting slices of foam to fill little openings
around plugs in wings & tail. Also handy for trimming laminate if it gets
beyond knife trim stage.
A keyhole saw is easier to control than a hacksaw when removing foam
trailing edge support blocks.
A Dremel tool is so useful as to be essential. The wire brush cuts foam like
a miniature circular saw to a depth of 1/4 inch or so. Use it to remove the
foam in the aileron channel by running it about 1/8 inch from the vertical
foam. You may have to make an orthoganal cut with the razor saw and then a
second pass with the wire brush to complete removal. The wire brush won't
damage the underlying laminate if it touches it and in fact is useful in
removing micro from glass. The little sanding drums work well on laminate
edges. Many, many uses for the Dremel.
A few 2 inch drywall screws work well to hold the 1 inch root pieces in place
instead of 5 minute epoxy.
Good luck with your project.
John Moran, A044
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