Following the information of a fatigue rupture on a 1.2 or 1.5 mm piano
wire there was an external damage on the piano wire itself because it is so
strong that pushing and pulling actions cannot not create a break. The
resistance of a CAP is 120 kg per mm=C2=B2 ie 135 kg for a diameter of 1.2
mm
and 212 kg for 1.5 mm=C2=B2. Even if the steel was of poor quality, for exa
mple
60 kg, the actions of pushing and pulling are not sufficient to cause it to
break, on top of that the piano wire is double! can be shear by a bolt ?
Le dim. 3 janv. 2021 =C3- 08:39, Europa-List Digest Server <
europa-list@matronics.com> a =C3=A9crit :
> *
>
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> Europa-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sat 01/02/21: 3
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 03:53 AM - Re: Europa XS Mono Throttle cable friction and jam
> (Richard Wheelwright)
> 2. 08:46 AM - Re: Europa XS Mono Throttle cable friction and jam
> (Bud Yerly)
> 3. 01:25 PM - Re: Europa XS Mono Throttle cable friction and jam
> (MEE)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Richard Wheelwright <rpwheelwright@yahoo.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Europa XS Mono Throttle cable friction and jam
>
> I had a similar problem. If cables are oil/greased in time the lubricant
> eve
> ntually drys out and also picks up dust. And then will stick.
> To solve the problem I changed to solid cables. I sent my old cable to
> https
> ://www.cable-tec.co.uk/ who made me the new cables to the length
> required.
> There is s heat resistant grease that does not dry out, sorry I cannot
> reme
> mber what it was. But it has worked perfectly for about 4 years with no
> prob
> lems.
>
> Richard
>
> > On 2 Jan 2021, at 05:52, MEE <macstar1224@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > I had to abort a take-off due to poor acceleration and low manifold
> pressu
> re.
> > Problem was caused by one throttle cable sticking at just above idle
> whil
> e the other at full throttle!
> > Even when the cable was lubricated it was still has high friction. Look
s
> l
> ike I need new cables. Think the cable system needs expandable rubber
> boots t
> o reduce the amount of grit that must contaminate the cable runs.
> > Anyone else had this problem?
> >
> > --------
> > Ian McClelland
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499940#499940
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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> ========================
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> ========
> ========================
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> ========
> ========================
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> >
> >
> >
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com>
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Europa XS Mono Throttle cable friction and jam
>
> Ian,
> I believe the Europa Club has a paper I did on throttle cable installatio
n
> on their site, it is also at
> https://customflightcreations.com/techniques-a
> rticles/ <https://customflightcreations.com/techniques-articles/> (I
> don't pay google any longer so type in the https://... to find
> the site through all the paying ad customers.) If the cable bends in the
t
> hrottle box, it is generally not a lubrication problem or even a sticky o
il
> cable to sheath issue. It is a problem with the cable installation, mos
t
> likely a kinked or bound cable. Maintainers unfamiliar with the Europa o
ft
> en look at the cables and are appalled that they are loose and not firmly
b
> ound all along their route to the carb. In their attempt for neatness, t
he
> y bind the cable(s) and cause them to bind. Builders also fail to get th
ei
> r initial throttle box alignment correct to prevent the cable(s) from cle
an
> ly entering the sheath from the throttle arm. I recently scolded one of
my
> clients for allowing a well known Rotax repair facility touch his cable
ro
> uting. The repairman kinked the cables and bound them tightly. It was a
n
> older Classic (20+ years old), so upon installation of his new cables, al
l
> worked flawlessly again.
>
> Cables must be anchored and aligned properly on both ends and frankly, th
e
> area in between must be loopy and only lightly affixed to prevent interfe
re
> nce in the wheel well of the mono.
>
> A new set of cables can be purchased, but still, the running of the cable
s,
> the alignment in the home made throttle box and fixation to the carby mu
st
> be addressed.
> To supplement my article on "Throttle and choke cable etiquette" attached
,
> please check the following:
>
> Prior to removing the cables to rebuild them to proper spec. one can chec
k
> that the cables are not kinked or tightly bound, the cable binding nuts o
n
> the throttles are lubricated and free to rotate, and the throttle box cab
le
> pivot points on the arm are free to operate. (The only two points requi
ri
> ng lubrication are this pivot on the throttle linkage and the box cable p
iv
> ot attachment in my opinion.) Look into the throttle box for proper cabl
e
> alignment. If issues are found, simply removing the cable/throttle box t
o
> your nice warm workbench and correcting issues is all that is needed. I
fi
> nd that if the cable itself is kinked, or unraveled, it is best to replac
e
> the cables as it is not worth the time. If the cable will not operate la
id
> out on the bench, it won't work in the plane. If you have to tug on a c
ab
> le in either direction to get it to move, you have a damaged sheath. Rem
em
> ber, cable sheaths are just a coil of wire wrapped around a nylon tube.
If
> the winding is damaged, it squeezes the inner liner, and the cable will
no
> t operate freely in the sheath.
>
> For me, the nylon sheath lined cables require no lube over a lifetime. (
Al
> though I have used a graphite lube to ease customers fears from the const
an
> t complaints of club members/owners on this subject.) The sheath is line
d
> with nylon, coiled in stainless, then heat shrink over the top making a d
ir
> t resistant sheath for the twisted wire cable. My old original Classic c
ab
> les from 1998 (I'm not sure if they were supplied by Europa) were damaged
b
> y the original builder and were shortened in length, but alas his techniq
ue
> was poor as the cable sheaths were bent hard, the cable end cuts were sm
as
> hed and the cable attachments were misaligned in the throttle box. So th
er
> e was much to correct. Note that if supplied with an aftermarket or orig
in
> al non lined sheath, they are best replaced as stainless steel to stainle
ss
> steel can lead to a corrosion problem eventually. My 2005 supplied Euro
pa
> cables have been good now for 15+ years with only a single light lube of
a
> Teflon or graphite that was used during inspection (I can't remember wha
t
> lube I used on the cloth as I was more interested in corrosion of the cab
le
> s here in Florida). The reason I pulled my cables was for an experiment
du
> ring my rubber replacement at the 10 year condition inspection, when I al
so
> chose to install a throttle friction.
>
> Some owner/builders have done solid cables of wire, model airplane nyrod
pu
> sh pull cables, and Zenith style solid rod to a welded arm on the firewal
l
> that allows both throttles to be actuated via a short push pull cable. A
ll
> taking more time, money and effort than simply following cable etiquette
.
> Read over the attached paper and check your cables for yourself. Correc
t
> any issues, make sure it works on the bench with the cables straight, the
n
> make a large loop and check again. After install in the aircraft but not
y
> et attached to the carb arm, the cables should move freely. If the thro
tt
> le cables worked on the bench and not in the aircraft, you've pinched som
et
> hing. I've found from winter to summer, from minus 10C to plus 40C the c
ab
> les work fine from Canada to Florida so they should work for you.
>
> Any cable of twisted wire, solid wire or plastic will do if you can get t
he
> fittings right on the ends and aligned properly. In experimentation, it
t
> akes a keen eye for detail, time, patience, analysis and money to correct
o
> ur new designs/mods and get them working flawlessly.
>
> Best Regards,
> Bud Yerly
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> <owner-europa-list-server@matr
> onics.com> On Behalf Of MEE
> Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2021 12:52 AM
> Subject: Europa-List: Europa XS Mono Throttle cable friction and jam
>
>
> I had to abort a take-off due to poor acceleration and low manifold press
ur
> e.
> Problem was caused by one throttle cable sticking at just above idle whi
le
> the other at full throttle!
> Even when the cable was lubricated it was still has high friction. Looks
li
> ke I need new cables. Think the cable system needs expandable rubber boot
s
> to reduce the amount of grit that must contaminate the cable runs.
> Anyone else had this problem?
>
> --------
> Ian McClelland
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fforums.
ma
> tronics.com%2Fviewtopic.php%3Fp%3D499940%23499940&data=04%7C01%7C%7
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>
> ________________________________ Message 3
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: Europa-List: Re: Europa XS Mono Throttle cable friction and jam
> From: "MEE" <macstar1224@gmail.com>
>
>
> That's really helpful information.
> Thanks Bud
>
> --------
> Ian McClelland
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499943#499943
>
>
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