Gidday,
I'm after advice regarding the wing to fuse fairings, whether an alternative
method
was attempted by anyone else, as I'm a little bit motivated in that regard.
I'm using Fred Kleins P51 trailing edge to fuse mouldings, and it suits that
setup that I know where the extension of the wing meets the fuse, so, I've used
thin foam glued ontop of the wing, shaped to the fuse as a "shelf" which I've
built up on the closeout side, and then lay-up BID ontop to reinforce it.
So, once the original foam on the top of the wing has been removed I now have
the wing extended all the way to the fuse. I can now more accurately shape foam
to the fuse, which especially on the underside requires the foam to be shaped
to be well over 90 degrees, to mate with the face. If I wasn't working upside
down I'd bog it up with car bog, and then shape it, which would create a perfect
layup substrate. Still, I can't, but since I have the wing skin extended
all the way to the fuse i am wondering if anyone has any suggestions. I hear
that
it is a good idea to make the fairings flexible, because under aerodynamic
load they need to be able to flex.
My first question is, had anyone made rigid fairings, and do they pop against
the
fuse under G, or are there any negatives? My setup if I persist will result
in a triangular cross section which won't flex easily, vs what the book wants,
and also there is the issue of the number of plies i need to use. It didn't
make sense to me to follow the book on the top, and bottom of the Leading edge
where I have on average 10-15 mm max of gap, and with a 25 mm radius, it just
didn't gel with me as the best way. Maybe I should clarify where the gap on the
trailing edge is far more, so it seemed I needed to extend the wing anyway.
Any help with alternative suggestions would be appreciated. I know what the book
says, but my question is more pertinent to those that might have chosen an
alternative
method.
Thanks.
regards
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Aussie.
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