In case anyone is interested here is what we did as far as anti bulge between
shoot
bolts and top aft warping on doors:
*Anti bulge between shoot bolts, I know that there are many ways to skin a cat,
can install a smaller seal, strengthen door with aluminium plate or Uni, or warp
door and install glass and hope it don't change, I opted for a passive pin
and striker. Pin on fuse and striker on door. Stupid and simple.
*Anti top aft door warping, I know there are many changing strut position with
chance warp will be worst than if strut were kept in original position. I
investigated
Ted Gladstone geometry, boy with my XS kit A-265 with 4130 chrome moly
harness attachment just aft of door rebate, I just don't know if I could fit
without major surgery. I opted to keep strut in original position, laid up 1
layer of CF on door and installed a pin and striker. What a slick piece of
geometry!
The pin is aimed 6 degrees off neutral and relieves stress on door when
closed while at the same time tugging down on the top surface of door. It is
true that if you left the door opened it can still warp, but if I tie doors
together
when they are opened for any long legth of time, I am preparing to make
that an easy thing to do.
Details from here on:
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=76536
I will not Redux in place until I finish bonding on second wing skin so I don't
run short on Redux. Present things are only bonded in place with JB KWIK Weld
onto scuff sanded 3M 375 packaging tape and sheet metal screws, works great
though!
Ron Parigoris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278519#278519
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