Hi Dave,
I used trigonometry (tan) for both flaps and aileron and the result was
perfect. (I don't think the method in the manual is 100% correct.
especially not after the jig is cut)
This is a safe method:
1. Make sure that your table is dead level (most important straight)
2. Make a wedge of wood that can stand on the under surface (and later
upper surface) the length should be about cord length.
The angle of the wedge makes the level-tool hold zero (or almost)
at the root (or tip).
3. Make shims or use tool (thin metallic-foil) with the following
thickness:
tan x * wedge-length. x is the washout.
4. Put both wedge and level on the flap/root and the reading should be
more or less zero (but the bubble position is more important)
5. Move the wedge and level to the tip and put the shims between the
wedge and the level far out as possible (relative wedge).
If the washout is correct it should read zero or bubble position the
same.
6. If not correct, put shims under the jig.
7. triple check that you have not make an inverted washout.
8. repeat 4-6 until you are happy with your washout and glue the jig
with 5 min epoxy.
Before the layup make a last washout check.
Save this wedge and shim for later use.
Good luck
Stephan Cassel
#556
> <dsimenauer@cox.net>
>
> I've got my jigs shimmed and my flap cores aligned properly. But I
> have to admit I'm not completely certain how to make sure the washout
> is correct. Any help with this would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave Simenauer
> A101
>
>
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