All,
For those getting to this stage, a brief endorsement of an idea gleaned from
the mail archive at http://www.geocities.com/asarangan/europa_forum.html.
Instead of using the weight of the module plus clecoes and weights as
suggested by the book, I followed an idea originally posted by John Bean in
August 98 (copy of his message below). I used four cargo straps around the
fuselage and over temporary wooden "strongbacks" located at the front of the
tunnel, the front of the seats, the headrests and the rear of the bagge bay
tunnel. These plus a few (less than 20) hex-drive self drilling/tapping
screws (the sort used for sheet metal construction) were more than enough to
pull the joints together with no distortion of the fuselage. The screws came
out very easily with a battery operated nut-driver leaving grease-free holes
ready to fill with flox.
If you are still reading the forum, thanks John!
Best regards,
Nick Hammond
XS Monowheel 418
----
Subject: Module fitting
From: J D Bean <JohnBean@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 16:01:49 -0400
Hi All,
My cockpit module went in a couple of days ago and, as usual many weeks and
months of doubt, pontificating and worry over in a total of 2 hours - damit
it always seems to go that way when I get up the courage to complete the
task and follow the instruction book! (Well 2 books actually as I have the
original and the XS manuals - by choice).
I used 1" wide cargo holding straps under the belly of the fuselage up and
over 4 blocked up and wedged wooden beams with 2 bolts to pull it forward
to the firewall. These cheap straps have a ratchet mechanism to pull them
in tight; care is needed as I have seen a canoe split easily with the
amount of force the straps are capable of. The forward bolts were through
holes in the firewall and slots in the module allowing me to pull down in
stages between slackening and tightening bolt/strap cycles. Though I have
had all of this ready for well over 18 months now I believe that the method
has been used before and reported on over the net.
Levelling in roll was based on the wing spar pins with a check at the rear,
just forward of the fin sweep up, to avoid any twisting. Pitch alignment
was from approximately where the stbd doorsill will be. All reference
positions are marked so that I always go to the same point each time.
It needed about 700gms of Redux/flox initially and a 50 gm mix to go round
for adding in where required, there were practically no areas that require
and infilling apart from the top of the module to firewall flange as this
was blanked by one of the bracing wooden beams. It all went very smoothly
and was very quickly completed.
The only slight difficulty was the lifting and turning over of the cockpit
module when it is covered in the Redux porridge in a very confined area.
This was considered easier than attempting to apply the mixture with the
module upright. There was very little 'cleaning up' to do as we had managed
to give the exposed edges a nice fillet all round.
This was also the first work I have done since I have built up a copy of
the factory dolly which is such a splendid bit of equipment. It allows me
to move the fuselage easily by myself and the setting up of levels could
not be simpler - 2 turns of the corner support equates to about 0.1 degree
- any large movements of the supports and I resort to a socket on the
electric drill!
I do seem to spend some time making up various bits to assist my building
as I have limited assistance for some of the work. I have just made up a
jig to help accurately hold the tailspar when aligned. It consists of a
cheap dual axis milling vice on it's end mounted on an extendable stand.
This allows the vice jaws to be inched in the vertical and horizontal
allowing a precise position to be fixed in space to clamp to.
As I have said before mine is a slow build but may speed up as I may,
unfortunatly, be given ill health retirement soon, I just hope that I will
be able to get my medical back before I complete the aircraft.
Gheers, and happy building.
John Bean (Kit 23)
|