Europa FAQ version 16, last modified 2 November 1999
This is the list of Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) for the Europa
e-mail list. It relates to the Europa kit-built aeroplane, designed
by Ivan Shaw (with a little help from Don Dykins).
FAQ maintained at present by:
Rowland Carson [with help from FileMaker Pro and the Europa community]
<europa-club@rowil.clara.net>
Any Europa enthusiast may apply to take over as maintainer at any time.
Questions answered (* = changed since last version):
0 Where can I find this FAQ?
1 I have a suggestion for the FAQ - how can I get it included?
2 List etiquette - what's that?
3 How do I join the Europa e-mail list?
4 How do I get off the Europa e-mail list?
5 Why did my reply to a posting never appear on the Europa e-mail list?
6 Why did I receive two replies to my posting on the Europa e-mail list?
7 How can I get the full archives of the Europa e-mail list?
8 Can I post attachments or encoded mail to the Europa e-mail list?
9 How do I join the Europa Club?
10 Factory newsletter, Europa Flyer, e-mail list - I'm confused!
11 Are there any other organisations for people building aeroplanes?
12 Where can I get more info about home-built aircraft generally?
* 13 I haven't got a pilot's licence - can I train for it in my Europa?
* 14 Can I fly a Europa on a microlight/ultralight license?
15 Can I buy a ready-made Europa?
16 How long will it take me to build a Europa?
17 How much will it really cost to build a Europa?
18 What are the dimensions of the Europa on its trailer?
19 Do I have to use the Europa factory-supplied open trailer?
20 What tools will I need to build a Europa?
21 Has anyone designed a fuselage support for use during building?
22 Do I need special skills to build a Europa?
23 How will I know I've built it right?
24 Everyone says "build light" - how do I do that?
25 How can I avoid allergic reactions to epoxy?
26 How do I get a C of A or Permit to Fly the completed Europa?
27 What engines are available for the Europa?
28 I'm quite big - will I be comfortable in a Europa cockpit?
29 My strip is only 300m - could a Europa operate out of that?
11 Are there any other organisations for people building aeroplanes?
Many countries have a homebuilt aircraft or sport flying
organisation, and you can get help and advice by joining.
Australia: SAAA <http://www.saaa.asn.au/>
Canada: RAAC <http://www.inforamp.net/~raac/>
Denmark: KZ Club & EAA 655 <http://www.cybernet.dk/users/wow/DA/chap655.html>
France: Reseau du Sport de l'Air (RSA)
<http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/RSAIR/>
Germany: OUV <http://www.ouv.de/>
Greece: Hellenic Experimental & ULA Association <http://www.eexi.gr/spa>
International: FAI - CIACA International Homebuilt Committee
<http://www.fai.org/~fai/homebuilt>
Italy: Club Aviazione Popolare (CAP)
<http://www.areacom.it/html/arte_cultura/aviazione/hombuil.htm>
Mexico: AAE <http://spin.com.mx./~jpgonzalez/>
New Zealand: Sport Aviation Assoc of NZ <http://kaon.co.nz/saanz>
Sweden: EAA 222 <http://www.hobby.se/EAA/EAA.html>
Switzerland: RSAS <http://www.mygale.org/06/rsa>
UK: Popular Flying Association (PFA), with local Struts
<http://www.pfa.org.uk/>
USA: Experimental Aircraft Association (EAA), with local Chapters
<http://www.eaa.org/>
12 Where can I get more info about home-built aircraft generally?
Join the homebuilders organisation in your country (PFA, EAA, RSA, etc).
The homebuilt plane FAQ is posted regularly to the newsgroup:
rec.aviation.homebuilt
You should be aware that its answers relate to the situation in USA.
If you live elsewhere, things may be different.
Several books are available on the subject.
Allan J Hall said:
My vote for most useful books would be:
Sportsplane Construction Techniques - Tony Bingelis
Firewall Forward - Tony Bingelis
Aviation Spruce & Speciality - Catalogue
Jim Campbell said:
Don't forget US Aviator's MASSIVE SportPlane Resource Guide... 740
pages detailing the REAL highs and lows of nearly 600 sportplane kits
as well as over 40 "How-To" chapters covering everything from basic
composite construction technigues to test flying and dealing with the
Feds...
US Aviator is at 3000 21st St-NW, Winter Haven, FL, 33881.
1-800-356-7767
Rowland Carson said:
I personally have found the following books useful. Choosing Your
Homebuilt - the one you'll finish
Kitplane Construction by Ron Wanttaja; Composite Construction for
Homebuilt Aircraft by Jack Lambie; and of course Moldless Composite
Homebuilt Sandwich Aircraft Construction by Burt Rutan. All except
the last are available from the PFA bookshop. I can't understand why
they don't do the Rutan one - I got mine from Aircraft Spruce, who
also do a kit of materials to go with it, so you can try out the
techniques on a small scale.
* 13 I haven't got a pilot's licence - can I train for it in my Europa?
This is probably a bad idea. The aviation administrations in some
countries will not permit it, anyway. But consider the possibility
that you spend several years toiling to build the aeroplane, then
find that:
you have some subtle medical condition that prevents issue of a
flight medical;
you spent so much on building the plane you have no funds left to
pay for training;
you don't really like flying in a small plane;
you just don't seem to have an aptitude for controlling a plane.
OK, you can still probably sell it for more than the parts cost, but
maybe you might have chosen to use your time differently had you
known in advance.
-------------------------------
Kim Prout said (in relation to FAA rules for USA):
You could train for your PPL in a Europa, this would also
count as training in taildraggers, although you would be best off training
in taildragger first then transition train to Europa. If flying a tri-gear
this would be no factor.
* 14 Can I fly a Europa on a microlight/ultralight license?
No. The Europa requires an ordinary private pilot's license (but see
Kim Prout's comment below). It is too fast and heavy to be classed as
an ultralight or microlight. The rules defining
microlights/ultralights are slightly different in different countries
(and in some places no licence at all is required to fly one), but
the Europa would not meet any of them. As far as formal pilot
qualifications are concerned, it's usually going to be in the same
category as a Cessna 150 (single-engine landplane). In some
jurisdictions, your licence will need to be endorsed for "retractable
undercarriage" and/or "tailwheel". Since (in its most popular
configuration) it is a monowheel taildragger, your flight safety will
be enhanced by having some prior taildragger experience, and much
more so by getting some training on the Europa itself from a pilot
experienced on type before you launch solo. In UK, please take
advantage of the PFA coaching scheme for type conversion training,
which is helping to prevent low-time accidents and so keeps all our
insurance premiums from going through the ceiling!
------------------------------
Kim Prout pointed out a curiousity of the FAA regulations relating to
pilot licences for experimental-certificate aircraft in USA:
Per FAA Riverside FSDO, R.C. Morton, a ruling was made several years ago by
General Counsel which allows any type rating to fly any experimental, unless
the operating limitations specify a certain rating for the aircraft. A
typical limitation states that the pilot must be appropriately rated for the
type aircraft (need a private pilot license) or a sign off in your log book
by an instructor. In other words, you could indeed have any rating (glider,
balloon, etc) and still pilot a Europa if you can find an instructor to
train you in the Europa and sign your log book that you are qualified in
type.
15 Can I buy a ready-made Europa?
-----------------------------------
The only way you can do that at present is to find someone who's
built one and is willing to part with it. It is also possible that
someone who has developed an epoxy allergy through careless handling
and cannot complete the project may wish to sell a part-finished kit.
Ads for such Europas have appeared in the classified sections of
general pilot-interest magazines (eg "Pilot" & "Flyer" in UK), and in
the magazines of the homebuilder organisations (eg PFA's "Popular
Flying" & EAA's "Sport Aviaton"). You can also find them in a
Europa-specific forum such as the Europa Club's "Europa Flyer" or the
Europa internet e-mail list.
You should be aware that it is strictly illegal to have someone else
build an aircraft for you, and claim it as your own work. Both the
CAA and the FAA enforce this rule. That does not prevent certain
specialist jobs (eg painting, avionics installation) being done by
others, but you should be prepared to prove that you have done the
bulk of the building yourself.
Also, if you buy an aircraft either completed, or on which someone
else has done the majority of work, you may not be allowed to perform
maintenance tasks on it unless you can demonstrate to the appropriate
authorities that you are competent to do so (which you would normally
demonstrate by building the whole thing yourself!).
16 How long will it take me to build a Europa?
------------------------------------------------
In July 1997 Laurent Charvet of Europa Aviation said, of the "pre-XS" kit:
With the "old" Europa kit, I believe the quickest time that we know
of is just over 920 hours and the longest 1,500.
Rowland Carson responded by quoting the following hours to complete
---From Europa Club members:
900
1200
1500+
1580
2000
2000
2000
2000
2000+
2300
2400
2400
2500
2500
~2800
2900
2900
3000
3000+
Some of the longer times will be by first-time (ie slower-working)
builders, or perfectionists repeating stuff they weren't happy with
on first try, or people doing lots of extra detail for a
concours-winner "show plane" - or even all of the above!
17 How much will it really cost to build a Europa?
----------------------------------------------------
John Kackay posted these figures (US $) in August 1995:
Kit delivered 19250
Trailer kit 750 (approx, no firm price given)
Rotax 914 12500
prop 1500
Inst/avionics 10000
Upholst/paint 1000
-----
Total 45000
Douglas Wagner posted these costs (UK pounds) in August 1995:
Type: Item: Total (incl VAT):
Stage 1 empennage 3,442.75
Stage 2 wings 4,641.25
Stage 3 fuselage 6,462.50
Powerplant Subaru 118 hp 6,462.00
Fitting kit 2,937.50
overflow bottle 39.95
rectifier/regulator 41.13
slipper clutch 323.13
vacuum pump 675.63
Propeller electric, variable speed 1,997.50
Instruments altimeter 199.75
air speed 141.00
vertical speed 129.25
turn and slip 282.00
gyro horizon, RCA22-7 625.10
directional gyro, RCA-11A-8 559.30
standby compass 70.50
Westach hour meter 2A10 41.42
Avionics Terra TX760D Comm 928.25
Terra TRT250D Transponder 1,028.13
Terra height encoder 207.48
Antenna kit 17.63
GPS 705.00
Electrics wiring, switches etc 528.75
navigation lights 176.25
strobe 229.13
landing light 0.00
intercom 30.55
Finish paint 587.50
paint labor 2,750.00
interior trim 587.50
Trailer 1,568.63
workshop rent 12 mths 3,938.76
Total: 42,355.69
my labor cost 1000 hrs 10,000.00
Minimum Realistic Sale Price 52,355.69
In April 1996 Carl Pattinson posted these costs (UK pounds):
Stage 1/2/3 kit #12,500
Rotax engine kit # 9,000
Average Instrument Fit # 3,000
(ASi, VSI, Alt, AH, TS, GPS, Com Radio, switches)
Cushions/Carpet/Trim # 500
Paint and misc parts # 1,000
Registration & test flying # 1,000
Value Added Tax # 4,725
This adds up to about #32,000 on the assumption that you use no
professional labour (eg for painting) and many builders in reality
will end up spending nearer 35 - 40,000.
I certainly would not consider building a Europa unless you can lay
your hands on at least #30,000. I believe insurance will be in the
region of 1,500 - 2,000 fully comp, per year
In July 1996 Tony Renshaw posted these costs for Australia:
The tail kit will cost you about $750.00 AUD to sea freight out. Then
you'll have to insure it which will cost about $52.00. Then customs
clearances which will be about $120.00, and road transport and its
insurance increment from the port to your home. I recently got a
quote from Europa for a part share in a container for any future
stages I may choose to purchase. The tail kit by the way cost me
$6000.00 approx (2900.00 Pounds).
A wing kit 3800.00 Pounds
Packing 40.00
Crating 115.00
Insurance 16.00
Delivery approx 423.00
Fuselage Kit 5200.00
Packing 60.00
Crating 435.00
Insurance 21.00
Delivery 696.00
If both purchased together
Wing kit 3800.00
Fuse " 5200.00
Packing 100.00
Crating 435.00
Insurance 36.00
Delivery 1078.00
If both were sent in a container
Wing kit 3800.00
Fuse " 5200.00
Packing 160.00
Insurance 36.00
Delivery 700.00
18 What are the dimensions of the Europa on its trailer?
Tony Krzyzewski wanted to know how big a garage would be needed when
he got his Europa built back in New Zealand, so when he visited the
factory, he brought a tape measure:
The absolute dimensions of the Europa on its trailer, measured at
Kirbymoorside, are as follows.....
Height 84 inches 214 cm
Width 81 inches 206 cm
Length 19 feet 9 inches 610 cm
19 Do I have to use the Europa factory-supplied open trailer?
No. There are several other designs of trailer available in UK,
including several enclosed types. Northwick Manufacturing, Wade
Trailers, and Schofield Aviation have all advertised in the Europa
Flyer at various times. You can also design and build your own, as
described in Europa Flyer #12. EAA's Experimenter carried an article
on trailers in Vol 18 No 4, April 1998, pp 11-15 & 40-41.
20 What tools will I need to build a Europa?
----------------------------------------------
John J Moran wrote:
The list in the Europa manual is minimal in the extreme so I've come
up with a more expansive (expensive?) list.
Some tools are only used a few times and are costly; try to borrow
them if possible.
In addition to common tools (wrenches, screwdrivers, hammers, drill
bits etc.) kept by the typical auto and home owner, I have used the
following:
Hand Tools:
Angle finder (aka pendulum level) for rigging
Center punch, automatic
Clamps - a variety is needed, from spring clothespins to C clamps.
Cold chisel - to cut control cable
Compass with interchangable pencil and scribe points
Countersink, 45 degree
Dial caliper - optional but very useful
Files, flat and round. Several sizes needed.
Hacksaw
Hand reamer, 1/8" to 1/2", flutes about 4.5" long
Hole saws: 1.75", 2", 2.25", 3 1/8" (borrow?)
Hot glue gun
Level - carpenter's level and line (aka pocket) level
Long board sander - as used for autobody work
Nicopress tool for 3/32 cable (borrow?)
Paint pen, optional, available at art stores
Pens, nylon tip and felt tip marker
Pad saw (aka back saw)
Pop riveter
Razor scraper - holder for single edged blades. Useful for many things
including as a mini-squeegee when filling pinholes.
Razor saw (Xacto). Good for trimming glass if past knife trim stage. Many
other uses.
Respirator, with activated charcoal filters
Rivet squeezer for 470 style rivets (borrow?)
Scribe, carbide tip
Spackling knife - 8" as used with wallboard, for filler.
Staple gun - used to attach sandpaper to spline
Steel rulers, 6" and 18", optional but useful
Straight edge, 48" or longer. Type used for wallboard works well.
Surform plane - for blending ends of glass where they overlap, etc.
Tape measure
Tap wrench and 5mm x .8, 12mm x 1.75 taps (borrow?)
Trouble light (aka drop light), fluorescent preferred
Tubing cutter
Utility knife
Wire crimper for electrical terminals
Wood chisel, 1/2"
Power Tools:
Bench sander - optional but VERY useful, especially on Tufnol. Handy for
fitting the footwell floors and fuselage rear bulkhead too.
Dremel - must have. The fiberglass re-inforced carbide disks work great
for fiberglass cutting e.g. fuselage trimming. The drum sanders work well
on glass. The wire brush removes foam and micro from glass prior to
bonding. Expect to change motor brushes sometime during project due to
heavy usage; check brushes from time to time or you'll end up buying a
new tool.
Drill press - required
Electric drill, 3/8" variable speed. Having two will save some time since
often one must drill holes and then enlarge or countersink them.
Heat gun - optional. A hair dryer may suffice.
Orbital sander - saves time, not required.
Right angle attachment (close fit) for electric drill.
Router - handy if you happen to have one
Shop vacuum - required
Things you make
Fillet shaper - cut one end of a tongue depressor down so that it is
about 3/8" wide and round the end to make a nice fillet when applying
flox or micro in a corner. Wipe it off when you're done and re-use.
It will last forever, preserved in epoxy.
Flap sander: a piece of wooden dowel with a slot to hold sandpaper worked
for me. Used with electric drill to fit the control stick.
Round sander: a piece of plastic pipe with sandpaper glued on using rubber
cement.
Sanding spline, made from .093" Lexan (polycarbonate) left over from wing
inspection ports instead of plywood - for flexibility.
Sanding blocks, wood - 36 grit and 80 grit. To fit paper for long board
sander as found at auto stores.
Shop Aprons
Tool rests - to temporarily hold epoxy covered brushes and squeegees.
Foam blocks work fine for this.
Mini-sanders - tongue depressors with sandpaper rubber cemented to them.
Make several with different grits.
Consumables
Aluminum sheet, 10 mil. Get several square feet for making more precise
patterns than using paper. Can be cut with scissors. I found this at
the local newspaper where they use the sheets in the printing process.
Fish line
Hot glue sticks
Kitchen film (Saran Wrap or equivalent)
Masking tape
Nuts, 10-32 (100ea) and 1/4"-28 (20 ea) from the hardware store. Use
for temporary fit up to avoid wearing out bolts with the sticky nuts.
Peel ply, 2" - optional but saves time & effort
Plastic sheet, 4 mil or 6 mil poly for layup of glass tapes, etc. Also use
to cover work bench to avoid epoxy sticking.
Rubber cement - used to attach sandpaper
Sandpaper
Syringes - for epoxy injection. Use a very short piece of vinyl tubing
slipped over the nose to seal to the surface while injecting. Can often
be washed and re-used.
Rubber gloves (9 mil) with thin (4 mil) vinyl gloves to go over them. Use
string gloves as liners to absorb perspiration.
I'm not done building yet. Any suggestions for additions to the list?
21 Has anyone designed a fuselage support for use during building?
Yes - at least all of the following builders have:
Miles McCallum - see Flyer May 1999
Chuck Popenoe - see EAA Experimenter May 1999 and:
<http://members.bellatlantic.net/~cpops>
Roger Sheridan - see Europa Flyer #17 and:
<ftp://ftp.avnet.co.uk/pub/europa/trolley1.jpg>
and
<ftp://ftp.avnet.co.uk/pub/europa/trolley2.jpg>
Bob Fairall - see Europa Flyer #18
22 Do I need special skills to build a Europa?
------------------------------------------------
Most aeroplane designs are not beyond the capabilities of the average
handyman, but some skills will almost certainly need to be learnt or
at least sharpened. This is not surprising, as one of the official
reasons given for allowing people to build their own aeroplanes is
"education". Few people who have not previously built a foam & glass
aeroplane will be familiar with the techniques, but most will reach
an acceptable standard after some small practice pieces.
23 How will I know I've built it right?
-----------------------------------------
Keep in close contact with your PFA Inspector (USA: EAA Technical
Counselor) and she/he will make sure you do everything to a suitable
standard - may even help you do some things first time around!
You may be required (and it's probably a good idea anyway) to make &
keep small samples of each batch of layup that you do, which can be
tested to destruction as proof of strength.
24 Everyone says "build light" - how do I do that?
----------------------------------------------------
Graham Singleton said:
Burt Rutan described the best check I know.
6 plies of BID, laid up on a waxed (and buffed off) flat surface.
Squeegee out as much resin as poss without allowing air to creep in.
If too much pressure is used air can be sucked in as the fibres
relax. Allow to cure, cut to an accurate 10" X 16" rectangle and
weigh. 297 gms is a bit light and might have air voids. 310 gms is
perfect. 340 gms is too heavy. If your aircraft was built to this
ratio of resin to glass it would be around 40 lbs overweight. (18 Kgs
if you must )
25 How can I avoid allergic reactions to epoxy?
-------------------------------------------------
John J Moran wrote, in answer to a query about which resin system
causes least reaction:
I developed an allergy to Aeropoxy which is advertised to be less
prone to provoke an allergic reaction. Tried E-Z Poxy and was
allergic to that too. Tried West and wasn't allergic to that, nor am
I allergic to Redux. It's a matter of personal chemistry, so buy a
small amount and try it before commiting. For me, a respirator
wasn't sufficient so I had to get a Hobbyair to allow work to
continue.
The allergic reaction is apparently to the amines used in the
hardner. Each epoxy seems to use a slightly different amine so one's
personal reaction to each may differ. I became so sensitized to
Aeropoxy that a couple hours in the garage with the wings which had
cured for over three weeks would cause a major reaction, so
apparently the amines out-gas for quite a while. Touching the cured
wings also caused serious problems. Washing the cured parts with a
50/50 mixture of vinegar and water - required before filling anyway -
eliminated this sensitivity entirely.
Also, many are or become allergic to latex so beware of reactions to
the gloves. It can be confusing to sort out a latex allergy vs an
epoxy allergy since one tends to be exposed to both simultaneously.
Avoid gloves which use latex powder, cornstarch powder is less likely
to provoke an allergy and powderless gloves are available. Nitrile
gloves are a good alternative. Use string gloves as a liner to
minimize softening of the skin due to sweat since this increases
absorption through the skin. Use vinyl gloves over the latex gloves
when dealing with wet epoxy since latex is not totally impermeable to
epoxy - witness the stain which comes through latex gloves when
exposed to wet epoxy.
The level of precautions required once one becomes sensitized is
prohibitive, but the alternative is to terminate the project. Some
become so sensitive that termination is the only alternative.
Err on the side of caution and avoid becoming sensitized.
26 How do I get a C of A or Permit to Fly the completed Europa?
In the UK, the paperwork which clears your aeroplane for flight is
the ultimate responsibility of the Civil Aviation Authority (CAA) but
they have delegated the day-to-day function of this to the PFA. So,
as an aircraft builder in UK, you really have to join the PFA. In the
US, you deal with the local FAA office when it comes to clearing the
aircraft for flight. In UK, homebuilts do not get a C of A, but
rather a "Permit to Fly", similar to that issued for a manufacturer's
prototype. In USA, they are issued a C of A in the "Experimental"
category.
In the UK, inspections of the work in progress are made by an
inspector appointed by the PFA. Without evidence of such inspections,
the aircraft will not be permitted to fly. Documentary evidence of
the building process, preferably countersigned by an EAA "Technical
Counselor" is required in USA.
Before the aircraft is cleared for flight, the responsible authority
must be satisfied that it has been built correctly, to an acceptable
standard of workmanship, that it is substantially the work of the
builder (ie not built by a "hired gun") and that it matches the
design to agreed tolerances. Any modifications made by the builder
must also be approved.
The Europa Flyer, #14 & #15, contains more detailed information about
the UK paperwork requirements.
27 What engines are available for the Europa?
-----------------------------------------------
At present Europa Aircraft only supply and recommend Rotax engine
packages. Other engines are available from independent sources.
Rotax 912 80bhp (flying)
Rotax 912S 100bhp (flying)
Rotax 914 115 bhp, turbocharged (flying)
NSI Subaru 100bhp & 118bhp (flying)
Mid-West rotary (flown in at least 2 Europas)
Jabiru 2200 4-cyl 80bhp (flying in Jabiru; first flown in Europa June 1998)
Jabiru 3300 6-cyl 120bhp (Europa installation claimed similar to 2200)
JPX 4TX90/A flat-4 90bhp (Europa installation being developed by
builder in Italy)
Sauer 90bhp (flying in Austria)
Limbach 2000 EO (Europa installation being developed by Columbian builder)
Wilksch WAM-120 CITEC 120bhp turbodiesel (Europa flight testing planned 1999)
<http://www.wilksch.com>
BMW RS1100 (Reduction drives developed in UK & Germany, flown in
other aircraft)
The majority of Europas now flying use the Rotax 912, which has
proved very reliable in the Europa (and many other aircraft types);
although several of the other engine packages are flying in other
designs, not enough are in service in Europas to make statistically
significant comparisons. Engine installations usually differ from one
design of aircraft to another. The size of propellor that can be
used, the cowl shape, and in particular, changes in cooling
arrangements, mean that experience in other designs may not transfer
directly to the Europa situation.
28 I'm quite big - will I be comfortable in a Europa cockpit?
The so-called "LA" mod, quite early on, increased the useable
internal width, but not only at seat level as might be first assumed.
Ron Swinden said: Sit in your pride and joy dressed for the great
outdoors (freezing airfield!) and try waggling the stick and pumping
the rudder pedals. The mod is not about L A's but it is about
shoulder room.
Phil Hawker said: You need to try it out very carefully, and consider
what it might feel like after a long cruise. It is certainly less
roomy for the very tall than some of the other kits (such as the
Glastar) but then it has many other advantages over these, such as
fuel economy and all-round elegance. It is much roomier than some of
the more direct competition such as the Pulsar. Ivan Shaw is 6'3" (I
believe) and designed it to be comfortable for him.
The new XS has more legroom, but headroom may still be cramped if you
have a long body, and there is no straightforward way to increase
this (one UK builder, Graham Singleton, is contemplating a
substantial modification which could provide the answer). If you have
any doubts then find a finished example and try at least to have a
long "sit" - whilst making the obligatory "brrmming" noises of course.
At least one tall UK builder sold his share because of discomfort
during long flights - which is a real pity after so many hours of
work.
The factory is very helpful on this issue and will always suggest a
visit and test flight - I'm told that one 6'7" prospective builder
left convinced that he would be comfortable, although I'm baffled as
to how he must have been proportioned!
29 My strip is only 300m - could a Europa operate out of that?
Mark Talbot wrote: I speak from experience when I say that the Europa
is capable of operating from 300 mtr grass most of the time one up.
The snag, as I discovered, comes when something is not quite right
and you have failed to detect it. There is absolutely no room for
error and, at a certain stage of either takeoff or landing, you are
committed and there is no room to change your mind.
Graham Singleton summed it up very accurately. And the truth is that
there is simply no room for error. If you are lucky you will never
need that room - but ... but ... but ... but ...
My advice has to be, find yourself a longer strip! In round figures I
would be happy with 550m in an ideal world of green farm fields.
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