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Re: Ski sanding.

Subject: Re: Ski sanding.
From: Graham Clarke <gemin@cix.compulink.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 13:50:48
<<the piles of white stuff left on the floor>> 

If it were nearer 1st April I would advertise is "only used once".
Yes, this is a major problem - EVERTHING gets covered, from floor to 
ceiling and even the tools in the draws ! I see no way to get it clean 
enough for painting ever again. 

<>
The sander has a bag (which was always falling off) but it seems only to 
collect a proportion of the stuff. You can use the outlet for a vaccum 
extraction hose which improves things. This same vaccum cleaner supplies 
air to my helmet from its other end. Make sure there's a filter in place !

<<going too deep>> 

Have never damaged the skin - you can hear what is going on from the 
pitch of the engine note. Quite noticeable when you are no longer cutting 
the filler. Best to shim sander mounting to set the belt exactly in the 
ski plane with the device upside down. Then when you turn it over the 
weight of the sander (and the carpet on the ski surfaces) will generate 
light contact depending on how thick a top plate you have used. AMB you 
should be wary of pressing on (in every sense), especially down the 
leading edge slope.  With great trepidation I removed one ski to get "up 
the slope" cause by the overlaps towards the fairings. This is a 
difficult area where the curvature changes in two dimensions and no 
single scraper will apply a constant thickness coating (in fact it's a 
mess). At least on the top surfaces one will be putting the non-skid mat 
over it, so you don't have to try too hard there.

Total time to finish wing surfaces 15 hours, most on tips, leading edges 
and local defects on the 1/4 wing where too thin a coating was applied. 
(The angling shops wonder where your fishing when you ask for 200lb 
breaking strength !) Now for the spraying - pause while I build a the 
third garage. 

gemin



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