cure Jim, true and similar as to the acrylic in the mix (oxidation?), but there's still solvent in them all and require thinner, but gov't wants it out of there. So there's now less of it, but solven
this Mine is .7" x circa .032" thick and same (will rust unless..) steel, and .032" seems to do as intended. It would have been an appropriate dimension in response to an elderly, long-time scratch b
I used 1/4" 3003 aluminum tubing. The reason is finding anecdotes on kitplane discussion boards about how plastic lines can be problematic. One is heat generated in the brake ass'y, causing them to s
Hi, all -- I remembered doing a trial fit of each "Perspex" originally after kit delivery, and I recall only modest trimming to be needed. Now one door's glass has shrunk up to 1/4" in some places. B
moving. Well, polyester resin is pseudo living tissue, even more so than epoxy composite, Paul. I did the newer, preferred attachment of the gas struts, but it has needed weeks to settle out its str
Thanks for the suggestions, Kinsgley, but they lie flush in the sans-gelcoat rebates all around nicely. Mine have been stored in constant temp in what's supposed to be a billiard room, slowly being
do? shrink? MIne I guess if no similar anecdotes follow, just forge onward, Ferg. Mine may be the odd, unexplainable case. I thought I briefly saw Rod Serling of the "Twilight Zone" peering into my
If a recombinant gas (RG, AGM) battery is used, besides being much lighter, they require no sealed, vented compartment. Merely a solid hold-down arrangement, so they don't come undone in severe turbu
before. Thanks for the input, Erich. On mine, one side (the older in Perspex years) sits flush in the rebate all around, and the gap at the top is a uniform 1/4" - 5/16", the full length. I don't see
least one vacuum associated http://www.dynondevelopment.com/ I know nothing of this box, nor others, but I'm sure one can look up in all the product liability litigation as to the chances of pump or
I used a Dremel tool with the 1/2" sanding drum, to remove the gelcoat. They have a new cordless, variable speed model, with lithium battery. Seems so far to be of excellent design. Reg, Fred F.
this uncertified what I exists I believe you are correct, Paul. The Part 91 rules list the familiar bunch of stuff needed for IFR, or "FAA-approved equivalents." So, seems a nonapproved EFIS won't b
overheating into the and The little brass relief valve on the bottom of the "radiator" cap isn't surprised. Take a look, and while at it, make sure the seating area is not gunked up, to maintain max
Award and That would be significant, were it not that the quality of their journalism is atrocious. Harrison Ford rec'd their Best Actor award, for being "deeply in love with aviation." True enough,
battery. the top home - I agree, Mike, and would add also that if a 914 w/o two battery/charging systems, jump-starting and then going flying I think is risky. Also, if an RG battery, there's no main
the pivot You may wish to consider the gauge wiring you are using. I can't think of any function wired to a device at the top of the stick that requires anything larger than even #30 for intermittent
so multimeter lend Carl, I would just ground-test the systems by substituting a potentiometer for the Rotax senders, preferably a 500-ohm, "15-turn trimpot." See what happens over time (internal tem
2 have crack all the I was planning, since gelcoat down to sort of black has been removed, to add a few drops of black epoxy tint to the Redux. Brush on a thin skim coat in the rebate, and then full
I'd think that UV degradation over time would be the biggest factor. Ignoring whatever UV inhibitors may be in the plexiglass, indoor storage and/or cabin cover should mitigate that for more years t
I agree with white too, Mike, but context reminder to others, we were talking black tinted (or even dark green au naturel) Redux bonding the windows, and exposed to the sun. A digital infrared temp