The standard solution - which we plan to employ - is to use lightweight stiff foam (coloured white) or high density chipfoam (heavy) to provide the seat contours - raised sides, bolstered lower back
Having used a pump from the beginning, I personally wouldn't be without one... Problems I have found are: bubble in the hardener line - normal - means wasting a partial squirt to get rid of it. Crys
2cc? yes something to do with keeping the resin warm -ampreg says that this is normal - only noticeable in the feed line because its the only one with an inverted U bend. NO - see above over a few we
We all get these... drill a needle sized hole at each end, heat it gently with a hairdryer or heat gun, and use something flat hard and cold to flatten the bubble. Then inject in some epoxy, peel ply
Interesting to see Frank Mycroft 's excellent piece on The Millenium (or not) was virtually the only email that came through dated 20 years ago. Took me ages to find it (at the other end of the massi
I applied to do this (via a PFA mod) - AD and BM approved the scheme with additional layups to reinforce the slots, but the PFA rejected it...... I've ended up with a sight tube down the back of the
I'm using the Vans (RV) NASA scoops, placed in the forward lower cowl: they have a 2" dia spigot formed, feeding scat to a fitting probably placed between the rudder pedals on each side, to Citroen a
I wasn't going to include one: My reasoning is that the scat is fireproof, and by the time a fire was going to be a problem, it would be too late anyway... Miles
If you detension it (remove the bottom arm bolt) and then push the cable outboard some before retensioning it, you can adjust both the position and tension. When the final positions of the wrapped ca
The Russ Light/ new Europa solid state stall warner measures port pressure [hole in LE] vs static pressure. It appears to be reliable (flaps up or down) and can be tweaked, I believe, by altering the
We propose to fit our Europa with conventional (taildragger) gear, probably utilising tri-gear steel mainlegs: preliminary design work has been done, and it is going through the hands of a stress eng
Scheme we are going for is: slots just aft of the windshield to let instrument heat out and hopefully demist if required. Big hole in the bottom (pilots side) to let air in. 3" fan in the hole if req
We have decided to proceed with our taildragger conversion using trigear mainlegs and a structure in the footwell/tunnel. This is being developed using the same software that Airbus etc use for desig
best solution is a polystyrene lined cupboard (or filing cabinate, or whatever) with one or two 150W bulbs for heat, and a temperature controller switching the bulbs. My resin stays a comfy 25 all th
My feeling is that (a) the engine thrust line can be adjusted with shimming or spacers, and (b) quite a lot of the cause of poor ground handling manners comes from the mainwheel being out of alignmen
We've used ali tubing - but it requires 2 diameters to be welded together (one for the sight tube, one for the breather) for the top end. held in place by several straps of bid to the underside of th
We've found (for horizontal work) that simply plonking the wing on a carpet protected sawhorse is adequate. For vertical work, 2 ply cradles have been cut and bonded to each wing with 5 minute (do it
snip I endorse Ed's technique - it works well, although if you let the flox begin to stiffen before you go for the cloth, it makes it easier to end up with a flat joint. Peel plying the entire LE....