Hi Nigel Yes, thank you for the additional detail. Bt you still don't say HOW the TP4 is to be cleaned out. And you say that the mass balance arm has to be disconnected. That means having to crawl in
Hi Mike, I guess you guys in the UK haven't got much choice on the matter. I certainly won't be rushing into yet another mod, apart from the ovalizing. All my fittings are completely tight, and the p
I am not so sure about the above. A failing mass balance would have the same effect as pushing the stick forward. The pilot would instinctively pull back the stick and regain level flight. Maximum t
Can anyone explain to me how the tailplane can possibly move outward by even a millimeter when the pip pin head is resting firmly against a solid wall on the inboard side, whether this is epoxy, glas
Nigel, I understand all that and your mod should have been made standard a long time ago. But what about older Europas ? We hear reports about disbonded TP6s but we don't hear how they were repaired.
Jeff, I think that the TP5 and TP6 can be removed with heat without cutting any holes. Also, it would be easier to pre-drill the pip-pin holes, as you can then do a trial fit before bonding. To get t
Hi Jeff, I think we are basically in agreement. But pre-drilling the holes in my view is absolutely essential. If you make a tiny mistake in drilling after the installation you will have to start all
Graham, I could be wrong, but I don't agree. I think I can control the heat precisely to a localized area and not damage any foam. Karl _______________________________________________________________
Hi Bob, Thanks for the warning. But, a) I have no intention of doing anything to my tailplanes for quite a while, while all the dust settles. I am quite happy with my tailplane retention the way it i
Regarding Carl's solution, how about using long pip pins made to order by that outfit in Fort Worth. The bottom of the pins would project through the bottom of the closeout and would be inspected on
Is there anything special about the TP5 hole ? The TP5 would be removed first, obviously. Karl _________________________________________________________________ Watch all 9 Live Earth concerts live o
Graham, Not sure what you mean by the bush. Disregarding the heat application for the time being, I would have a 1.5" alu tube inside the TP6. Then I would drill a small hole near the pip pin hole th
Hi Dave, Just going through my emails after my trip to California and BC. Jiri went on holiday about two weeks ago. My motor burned out in the middle of nowhere, somewhere in Wyoming, but response wa
Ian, I didn't know that there was an LED display for the flap motor, I just look out the window to check the flap position. Do you mean the trim motor by any chance ? Karl ___________________________
Hi George, I aim to replace my TP5/TP6 with a one-piece aluminum tube from ACS, without cutting into the taillplane, but by careful heat application. I have all I need to do the job, but haven't had
Hi Rob, Thanks for the warning. I have already tried that out and the tubes slide over very easily without play. I always keep the TP4's well lubricated anyway, mainly to avoid corrosion, which I had
Carl, The Woodcomp specs are not always correct. On paper my prop is 1750, but the actual diameter is 1720. Also, the specified weight is less than the actual. Karl __________________________________
At least 70" if you make the necessary mod to the nose gear . I had a new spindle machined out of the same material as the original, which is 50mm longer. It increases the nose-up attitude on the gro
Hi ferg, That is amazing. I had the same happen to me and it took about 4 weeks to get the replacement. Karl _________________________________________________________________ Can you see your house f